HoliSurf High Foam, Sophorolipids, 1 l

Sophorolipids HoliSurf High Foam are a surfactant produced by fermentation from European rapeseed oil and sugars. In formulations they cleanse and create rich, stable foam, and according to the manufacturer they are among the surfactants with a very mild action on the skin. They are suitable for shampoos, shower gels, liquid soaps and bath products, where they complement or partially replace conventional anionic surfactants.

The raw material comes exclusively from renewable sources, contains no palm oil, is readily biodegradable and holds the COSMOS Approved certification. The manufacturer indicates it is also suitable for formulations applying for the EU Ecolabel and for sulfate-free and ethoxylate-free formulations.

Key benefits

• Cleansing and high foam – sophorolipids remove sebum and impurities while stabilising the foam, so the wash product lathers more densely and for longer.
• Mildness to skin – the manufacturer describes the surfactant as exceptionally mild and includes it in products for baby and sensitive skin.
• Fermentation origin – the surfactant is produced by the action of yeasts on vegetable oil and sugars; the renewable carbon content is 100 %.
• Wide compatibility – compatible with anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, so it can be incorporated into an existing surfactant system without reformulation.
• Effects according to manufacturer's studies – the manufacturer reports a beneficial effect on acne-prone skin and on the scalp with dandruff, better sebum control and support for skin hydration after washing. Claims are based on their own tests; we recommend verifying them in the finished product.

Use in formulation

HoliSurf High Foam is water-miscible and is added to the water phase or subsequently to a finished surfactant blend. It has an anionic character and HLB 13. The recommended dosage is 1 – 4 % of active substance. The raw material is a solution containing 55 – 65 % sophorolipids, which must be taken into account when calculating the weight-in.

It is processed cold or with gentle heating. It is easiest to work with at 25 – 35 °C; the processing temperature should not exceed 60 °C. If the raw material has thickened in the cold, simply warm it carefully to approximately 35 °C and stir.

In the manufacturer's example shower gel recipe, 3 % HoliSurf High Foam is combined with Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Coco Betaine, preserved with sodium benzoate, and the viscosity is adjusted with sodium chloride. It can also be used in sulfate-free systems, for example with glucoside or amphoteric surfactants. Foam and viscosity should then be verified in the specific blend.

Suitable for products such as

• Shampoos – including shampoos for sensitive scalp and anti-dandruff formulations.
• Shower gels and bath foams – high and stable foam is the main advantage here.
• Liquid soaps and hand wash gels – as a complement or partial replacement for sulfate surfactant.
• Baby wash products – the raw material is suitable for baby skin, always in rinse-off products.
• Facial cleansing gels for acne-prone skin – rinse-off type, supported by manufacturer data on sebum control.

The raw material is intended for rinse-off products, where the behaviour of the surfactant is predictable.

What is worth knowing

The concentrate has an amber to brown colour. For a clear gel without colourant, we recommend checking the impact on the final colour at the chosen dosage.

The raw material has its own pH of 6 – 9. If the finished product has a significantly lower pH, verify foam and viscosity stability at the target pH.

Verify compatibility with the specific preservative system in the finished formulation. In the manufacturer's recipe it works with sodium benzoate.

The undiluted raw material is classified as irritant under the CLP regulation (pictogram GHS07). Instructions for safe handling are in the safety data sheet. The product contains no fragrance allergens as defined in Annex III of the cosmetics regulation.

How it differs from common surfactants

Compared with Sodium Laureth Sulfate or Cocamidopropyl Betaine, sophorolipids are produced by fermentation of plant-based raw materials, without petrochemical feedstock and without tropical oils. The manufacturer additionally documents very low toxicity to aquatic organisms and mildness to the skin. In the example recipe the manufacturer includes it alongside other surfactants as part of a surfactant system.

The manufacturer offers two variants. HoliSurf High Foam contains the acidic form of sophorolipids with pH 6 – 9 and creates high foam, hence the designation High Foam. The Low Foam variant contains the lactone form with pH 4 – 7 and is intended for formulations where high foam is not desired.

Frequently asked questions