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You too can make a lip gloss in the comfort of your home, using basic raw materials without a lip gloss base or similar blends. Since pigments are part of the lip gloss, an emulsifier has been added, which helps keep these substances evenly dispersed. Because we need a fairly fluid lip gloss (so that it can be applied with a roll-on), it is necessary to shake the lip gloss before use – the pigments will gradually sink to the bottom over time.
We have prepared three recipes for lip gloss for you, in which we observed the settling of the added mica powder depending on the amount of emulsifier used.
GLOSS 1
GLOSS 2
GLOSS 3
We have prepared three different types of lip gloss for you, which differ in the proportion of emulsifier. The goal was to find a combination where the gloss is still sufficiently fluid for dosing with a roll-on, and at the same time the mica powder will settle to the bottom as little as possible.In the first case, no emulsifier was used – therefore the mica powder significantly settled to the bottom immediately after filling the roll-on. Moreover, after a while it was very difficult to shake the gloss, so we do not recommend this lip gloss recipe to you.In the second case, an addition of the emulsifier Olivem 1000 was chosen, which helps to keep part of the mica powder evenly dispersed in the product. 1 percent of Olivem 1000 was added. As a result, the mica powder settled to the bottom much more slowly than in the first case. In addition, the mixture was still sufficiently fluid for application with a roll-on. To further slow down the settling of the mica powder, in the third case the proportion of Olivem 1000 was increased to 3 %, as well as the proportion of castor oil, which is quite viscous and therefore holds the pigment dispersed better. This combination of raw materials still created a sufficiently fluid lip gloss suitable for roll-on application, while the mica powder sank the slowest.However, in each of the tested recipes, the mica powder settled to the bottom over time, so the product must be shaken again before use. The resulting product is thus a compromise between fluidity for good application with a roll-on and thickening with an emulsifier to slow down the settling of the mica powder. A larger amount of Olivem 1000 would already increase the viscosity so much that the product could not be applied with a roll-on. However, if you have a tube applicator for gloss at hand, feel free to add approximately 10–14 % of beeswax instead of Olivem 1000 and part of the almond oil. Thanks to beeswax, the pigment will remain suspended and the gloss will have a thicker consistency, which a squeezable balm tube can handle.
Find out more about the raw materials used, or their possible variations, so that you can prepare a product exactly according to your requirements.
The raw material that keeps the mica powder dispersed for a longer period is precisely the emulsifier Olivem 1000. This emulsifier, even at low concentrations, carries dispersed pigments best and does not thicken the product too much.You can also omit Olivem 1000 entirely, if you do not mind that the pigment will quickly settle to the bottom and it will be necessary to shake the product even more thoroughly before application. You can also try other emulsifiers, but we recorded the best result with Olivem 1000.
Coconut oil is an excellent raw material for thickening and slightly increasing the viscosity of the product, while melting upon contact with the skin and thus not making the application of the product too difficult. However, do not increase its content in the product too much; in larger doses it thickens the product, making it no longer possible to apply the lip gloss with a roll-on.
One of the versions of classic coconut oil is fractionated coconut oil. This oil is liquid even at normal temperatures, colourless and with a minimal scent. That is why it is a great addition to lip glosses, because it allows the colours of the pigments used to stand out and has a low viscosity, which facilitates application. In addition, it provides products with a high gloss. Fractionated coconut oil is obtained from classic oil by isolating only certain fractions – parts of this oil that are liquid even at normal room temperatures.
An oil with high viscosity is precisely castor oil. In this recipe it is key, because it helps slow down the sinking of the mica powder particles to the bottom of the container. It can be replaced with another vegetable oil, but prefer oils with higher viscosity. Ideally, however, castor oil should not be omitted from the recipe.
An excellent oil with a light colour, which does not disturb the colour shade of the mica powder, is precisely almond oil. This oil is well tolerated by the skin, and the refined version is also odourless. For this reason, this oil is an ideal addition to lip gloss. You can replace it with any other vegetable oil. However, prefer those with a neutral or no scent and minimal colour, such as apricot kernel oil or fractionated coconut oil, or MCT caprylis.
It is mica powders that give the lip gloss its subtle shimmer and colour. These powders are available in a wide range of colours, so everyone will truly find something for themselves. You can use one shade or combine several until you create the desired colour result.
A protective and softening substance for the lips is precisely sunflower lecithin. This substance makes applying the lip gloss more pleasant and modifies its texture. Lecithin can also be completely omitted from the product or replaced with soy lecithin. The disadvantage is that it takes a longer time to dissolve; therefore, if you are in a hurry, omit this raw material.
The lip gloss does not contain water or water-based raw materials, so it is not necessary to add a preservative. On the other hand, the oils used will oxidise over time (then the product changes its scent, possibly colour, and is not suitable for further use). Pronounced oxidation of the oils can be delayed by adding an antioxidant – vitamin E. Both tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate are suitable for this product, as vitamin E is added only after the gloss has cooled, and thus is not exposed to elevated temperatures at which it could break down. If you do not have vitamin E at hand, you can omit it, but the product will then have a shorter shelf life.
Your lip gloss can also have a pleasant scent and taste, thanks to flavours for lip balms. These flavours can also be used in lip glosses or other lip products. They are oily substances that are added in the cooling phase. In this way you can choose the intensity of the scent yourself by changing the dosage of these flavours.Alternatively, you can reach for essential oils, for which it is stated that they are safe to use on the lips (information can be found in the IFRA standards). The flavour can also be completely omitted.
As mentioned, with homemade recipes you can experiment to achieve the desired properties. However, the final result can be influenced by many factors, such as humidity, temperature, quality of raw materials or their storage. Before you use any raw material to make a cosmetic product, familiarise yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions and safe handling. Each raw material may have the potential to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, therefore before using the product we recommend finding out whether you are not allergic to any of the raw materials or the overall product, e.g. by a patch test. If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or have other skin and health problems, we recommend consulting a medical professional before applying a new product to the skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
Adorn yourself with a lip gloss and create it according to our tutorial. If you know of tricks and ideas that could improve our tutorials, write to us at marketing@handymade.skWe thank Ivana Jačalová for the great tutorials she creates for us.Until soaping, friends, in the next tutorial.
