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The water phase forms the largest part of the formulation in many cosmetic products. We find it in facial toners, creams, gels, serums, emulsions, cleansing products and hair care. Despite this, in both home and professional manufacturing it is often perceived only as “the water in the recipe” – that is, as something neutral that just tops up the volume.
In reality, however, the water phase strongly influences the character of the entire product. It determines how the product will feel on the skin, how it will combine with active ingredients, what it will smell like, what pH the final formulation can have and how demanding it will be to preserve.
This is precisely why the difference between distilled water, demineralised water, tap water and hydrosol is more important than it appears at first glance. Water is not just water. Each type of water phase has a different composition, a different level of purity, a different degree of predictability and a different impact on the stability of the cosmetic product.
Distilled water is a pure, neutral and predictable base. Demineralised water produced by reverse osmosis and intended for cosmetic use is a very practical water phase with a low mineral content. A hydrosol is a plant‑based water phase with its own scent, a low content of naturally occurring substances and a specific sensory profile. Tap water is suitable for drinking, but it is not an ideal choice for cosmetic products that are intended to be stored.
That does not mean that a hydrosol is automatically better and purified water less valuable. Each of these raw materials has its place. The difference lies in what we expect from the formulation: maximum neutrality, stability and control, or a subtle botanical character, an aromatic profile and a water phase that is more interesting from a marketing perspective.
For hydrosols, it is at the same time important to talk about preservation. An unpreserved hydrosol is an aqueous raw material, and therefore naturally more risky from the point of view of microbiological stability. A preserved hydrosol can be a safer choice for storage and use, but in the final formulation you must take into account that it already contains a preservative system. When adding further preservatives, it is therefore necessary to proceed sensibly so as not to create an unnecessary preservative “overload”.
In this article we will look at what a hydrosol is, how it differs from distilled and demineralised water, why tap water is not recommended for stored cosmetics, when to use a hydrosol instead of water, how a hydrosol affects the fragrance of the product and why the quality of the water phase determines the stability and safety of a cosmetic formulation.
The water phase is the part of a cosmetic formulation that contains water or water‑miscible components. It can be distilled water, demineralised water, hydrosol, aloe vera juice, aqueous botanical extracts or other aqueous raw materials.
Humectants are often dissolved in the water phase, for example glycerin, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, some active ingredients, gelling agents, chelators, preservatives and other functional raw materials. That is why the water phase is not just “filler”. It is the medium in which a large part of the formulation takes place.
The quality of the water phase affects in particular:
If the water phase is of poor quality, unstable or microbiologically risky, it can affect the entire product, regardless of how high‑quality the oils, emulsifiers or active ingredients are.
When formulating cosmetics, it is not enough to say that the formulation contains “water”. From a formulation point of view, there is a major difference between distilled water, demineralised water and ordinary tap water. Each has a different composition, a different degree of purity and a different impact on the stability of the final product.
The water phase in cosmetics should not be random. It should be as pure, predictable and suitable for the given type of formulation as possible. This is why cosmetic formulations do not use ordinary tap water but purified water suitable for making cosmetic products.
Distilled water is obtained by distillation. The water is heated, turned into steam and then condensed back into liquid. This process removes a large part of the minerals, salts and non‑volatile impurities that may naturally be present in the water.
In cosmetics, distilled water is popular because it is neutral, predictable and does not influence the fragrance or colour of the product. It is suitable for creams, facial waters, toners, serums, gels, shampoos, shower gels and cleansing products.
Its advantage is that it does not introduce additional variables into the formulation. It does not contain significant amounts of minerals that could affect emulsion stability, the efficacy of some active ingredients or the behaviour of the preservative system.
Demineralised water is water from which mineral substances and ions have been removed. It can be produced in various ways, for example by ion exchange or reverse osmosis. The production method, purity, storage and intended use of the product determine whether a given demineralised water is also suitable for cosmetics.
In our range you will find demineralised water produced by reverse osmosis, which is suitable as a water phase for making cosmetic products. Reverse osmosis is a process in which water passes through a semi‑permeable membrane that helps remove a large portion of dissolved substances, minerals and undesirable impurities.
Water treated in this way is particularly practical in formulations where we need a clean, neutral and predictable water phase with a low mineral content. It is suitable for facial waters, toners, creams, gels, serums, emulsions, shampoos, shower gels and other cosmetic products containing a water phase.
It is important to distinguish between demineralised water intended for cosmetic use and technical demineralised water sold, for example, for irons, windscreen washers or batteries. Technical water does not necessarily meet the requirements for a cosmetic raw material and may not be suitable for contact with the skin.
Tap water is intended for drinking, not for formulating stable cosmetic products. Even if it may be safe for regular consumption, from a cosmetic formulation standpoint it is too variable.
It can contain minerals, chlorine, residues of treatment chemicals, different pH levels and varying hardness. These factors can affect emulsion stability, the appearance of the product, the behaviour of active ingredients, the formation of haze, the fragrance and the efficacy of the preservative system.
In home cosmetic making, the microbiological side is also a problem. Tap water is not sterile, and once mixed with botanical extracts, hydrosols, proteins, sugars or other cosmetic raw materials, it can increase the risk of product contamination.
For home and small‑batch cosmetics, a practical choice is distilled water or demineralised water, provided it is intended for cosmetic use. Both options provide a clean, neutral and predictable base.
Distilled water is particularly suitable when you want a classic neutral water phase without minerals and without fragrance. Demineralised water is an excellent practical choice in formulations where we need a low mineral content, good availability and a stable base for other cosmetic raw materials.
In professional manufacturing, purified water of controlled quality is mainly used, which may be prepared by combining several technologies, such as reverse osmosis, demineralisation, filtration and UV treatment. Important factors are not only the production method but also documentation, microbiological control, storage and hygiene regime.
The least suitable is tap water, because its composition is too variable for cosmetic formulations and can negatively affect the stability, appearance, fragrance and safety of the product.
A hydrosol is an aromatic water phase that is produced during steam distillation of plants. During this process, an essential oil is usually obtained and at the same time the aqueous portion of the distillate, which contains a small amount of naturally occurring volatile and water‑soluble substances from the plant.
A hydrosol is not an essential oil dissolved in water. It is a separate raw material with its own composition, fragrance, pH and sensory profile. That is why it is used in cosmetics not only as a replacement for water but also as a raw material that can give a product a subtle botanical character.
In cosmetics, hydrosols are used mainly in:
A hydrosol can be particularly interesting when you want to base a formulation on a particular plant or add a subtle aromatic and botanical profile to the product.
A hydrosol is often perceived as a mild floral water, but in a cosmetic formulation it can be a more active component than it seems. It has its own fragrance, its own pH and its own behaviour in the formulation.
It can influence:
For this reason, it is necessary to work with a hydrosol consciously. It is not just a “better type of water”. It is a plant‑based aqueous raw material that can enrich the formulation but at the same time introduces another variable.
Distilled water is neutral purified water. Its role is to provide a stable, clean and predictable base for the formulation. It does not contribute fragrance, colour or a botanical character.
A hydrosol is a plant‑based water phase. In addition to water it contains a low level of naturally occurring compounds from the plant, which can affect the fragrance, character and sensoriality of the final product.
The difference can most simply be explained as follows:
If you are formulating a simple cream, serum or gel and want precise control over the formulation, a clean water phase may be the better choice. If you want to give a product a subtle botanical character, a hydrosol can be a very suitable solution.
Yes, in most aqueous cosmetic formulations a hydrosol can be used instead of distilled or demineralised water. However, it is not always automatically the best choice.
A hydrosol is particularly suitable when you want to give the formulation a subtle botanical character, natural fragrance and a specific focus. It is excellent in facial toners, light serums, hydrating gels, emulsions and hair tonics.
A pure water phase such as distilled water or demineralised water is more appropriate when you need a neutral base, tighter control over fragrance, pH and stability, or when working with active ingredients where you do not want to add another botanical variable.
A hydrosol is very suitable where the water phase is intended not only as a technical base but also as part of the story and character of the product.
In a facial toner, a hydrosol can form the main part of the formulation. Thanks to this, the product feels milder, more plant‑like and more interesting sensorially. For toners, however, preservation must be addressed thoroughly, because it is a water‑based product that is used repeatedly.
In a cream, a hydrosol can replace part or all of the water phase. It gives the formulation a gentle fragrance and botanical character. You must, however, keep in mind that a hydrosol can affect pH, fragrance and the overall stability of the emulsion.
In serums, hydrosols are used mainly in light hydrating or soothing formulations. They combine very well with humectants such as glycerin, panthenol or hyaluronic acid. For pH‑sensitive actives, compatibility must be checked.
In hair products, a hydrosol can support the gentle aromatic profile of the product. It is suitable for hair tonics, sprays, light leave‑in products or as part of the water phase in shampoos and conditioners.
A hydrosol can significantly influence the fragrance of the final product, even though its aroma is usually milder than that of an essential oil. In some formulations this is an advantage, in others it may be a problem.
For example:
When formulating, you must take into account that the fragrance of a hydrosol can change in combination with emulsifiers, preservatives, active ingredients or fragrances. The subtle smell of the neat hydrosol may not behave the same way in the finished product.
It is therefore advisable to test a hydrosol first in a small sample. This is especially true for products where the fragrance should be clean, subtle or precisely tuned.
Yes, a hydrosol can affect preservation of a cosmetic product. Because it is an aqueous raw material, it must be assessed from the point of view of microbiological quality, pH, storage conditions and whether it is preserved or unpreserved.
A hydrosol itself does not replace a preservative system. Even if some hydrosols may have a certain natural antimicrobial potential, you cannot rely on them as full protection for a cosmetic product.
If a product contains a water phase and is to be stored for more than a few days, preservation must always be addressed. This applies to creams, gels, serums, toners, facial waters, shampoos and other products containing water.
An unpreserved hydrosol is more sensitive to microbiological contamination. It is a water‑based raw material that, if improperly stored or used for too long, can be more risky than it appears at first glance.
An unpreserved hydrosol may only be suitable if:
For products containing a water phase that are to be stored for longer, it is not sufficient to rely on the natural origin of the hydrosol. It is precisely natural and aqueous raw materials that can be more demanding from the point of view of microbiological stability, because they do not contain built‑in protection against microbial growth.
With unpreserved hydrosols, it is very important to maintain hygiene, use clean utensils, minimise hand contact and use them up after opening according to the manufacturer’s recommendation.
If a hydrosol is already preserved, you must look at its INCI and recommended use. It is not only the hydrosol itself that enters the formulation, but also its preservative system.
An additional preservative may not need to be added when:
A typical example might be a simple facial mist or toner based almost entirely on a preserved hydrosol and containing no other risky ingredients. Even then, however, you must follow the raw material manufacturer’s recommendations and hygiene rules during production.
An additional preservative usually needs to be considered when:
The goal is not to avoid preservatives at all costs, but neither to add them in unnecessarily high amounts. The correct approach is to know the composition of the hydrosol, the recommended dosage of the preservative, the pH of the formulation and the overall microbiological risk of the product.
Preservative overload means adding more preservatives to a formulation than is technologically necessary or appropriate. This can happen, for example, when you use an already preserved hydrosol and then, without recalculation, add another preservative at the full dosage.
Such an approach does not automatically increase product safety. On the contrary, it can worsen skin tolerance and affect the fragrance, sensoriality or overall character of the product.
For preservatives, more is not always better. It is important to use a suitable preservative system in the correct amount, at the correct pH and taking the entire composition of the formulation into account.
Hydrosols give the formulation a botanical character. The product can feel more natural, gentler and more interesting sensorially.
A hydrosol can subtly influence the fragrance of the product. In some formulations, it can partly support the aromatic profile without the need for a strong fragrance load.
Hydrosols are suitable for toners, essences, creams, gels, serums, hair tonics and hydrating sprays.
A hydrosol can increase the perceived value of a product. Customers often better understand a product that contains rose, lavender, chamomile or another plant hydrosol than one that contains only water.
A hydrosol can support a specific focus of the product, for example for sensitive, dry, oily or stressed skin.
A hydrosol is not completely neutral. It can affect fragrance, colour, pH and the overall character of the formulation.
Hydrosols can vary from batch to batch. Because they are plant‑based raw materials, their fragrance and sensoriality can differ slightly depending on origin, plant quality and production method.
An unpreserved hydrosol is more sensitive to microbiological contamination.
A preserved hydrosol must be factored into the overall preservative system of the formulation.
Not every hydrosol is suitable for every product. Sometimes it is better to use a neutral water phase and address fragrance or active focus with other ingredients.
By pure water phase in this context we mean mainly distilled water or demineralised water intended for cosmetic use.
A pure water phase is neutral. It does not affect the fragrance of the product and does not interfere with perfuming.
It is predictable during formulation. This is important, especially in formulations with active ingredients where good control over pH, stability and compatibility is needed.
It is suitable for testing formulations. When developing a new cream, serum or gel, a neutral water phase makes it easier to observe the behaviour of other components.
It combines well with active ingredients. It does not contribute botanical components that could affect the result or change the fragrance.
It is suitable for home cosmetics, provided it is used hygienically and in a properly preserved formulation.
A pure water phase by itself does not contribute a botanical or aromatic profile.
It is not as attractive from a marketing point of view as a hydrosol.
It does not by itself add a botanical character to the product.
It is still a water phase, which means the finished product containing water requires appropriate preservation.
Choose a hydrosol when you want to give your product a subtle botanical character, natural fragrance and a plant‑based story. It is particularly suitable for toners, hydrating sprays, gentle serums, light creams and products where the plant origin of the water phase is part of the concept.
Choose distilled water or reverse‑osmosis demineralised water when you need a neutral, clean and predictable base. It is particularly appropriate when developing formulations, for products with active ingredients, for formulas with precisely tuned fragrance, or where you do not want to introduce another botanical variable into the recipe.
Tap water is not suitable for cosmetics that are to be stored. Its composition is too variable and can unnecessarily complicate stability and preservation of the product.
The best water phase is not always the one that looks most interesting. The best is the one that matches the goal of the formulation, the product type, the stability requirements and the way it will be used.
Tap water may be suitable for drinking, but it is not ideal for cosmetics that are meant to be stored. It can affect stability, pH, fragrance and the microbiological quality of the product.
Not all demineralised water is suitable for cosmetics. Technical water for irons or batteries is not necessarily intended for skin contact or cosmetic manufacturing.
An unpreserved hydrosol is an aqueous raw material and can be microbiologically sensitive. If used in a product that is to be stored, a suitable preservative system must be implemented.
If a hydrosol already contains a preservative system, this must be taken into account in the formulation. Preservatives should not be added indiscriminately or “just in case” at higher levels.
A hydrosol can influence the fragrance of a product more than expected. It is therefore advisable to test it directly in the final formulation or at least in a small sample.
Hydrosols and some purified waters can have different pH values. For active ingredients, preservatives and emulsions, pH is a very important parameter that can affect product stability and efficacy.
The water phase is one of the most important parts of a cosmetic formulation. It is not just a technical filler but a base that influences stability, fragrance, pH, sensoriality and preservation of the product.
Distilled water is neutral and predictable. Demineralised water produced by reverse osmosis and intended for cosmetic use is a very good and practical choice for cosmetic formulations. A hydrosol brings a botanical character, subtle fragrance and botanical value, but requires more attention in terms of storage, preservation and compatibility. Tap water is not recommended for stored cosmetics.
The best water phase is therefore not always the one that looks most interesting. The best is the one that matches the goal of the formulation, the product type, the stability requirements and the way it will be used.
Practical questions that Veronika and Filip most often ask themselves when choosing the water phase for cosmetic formulations – from basic definitions through safety to preservation.
A hydrosol is an aromatic water phase that is produced during steam distillation of plants. It contains a low amount of naturally occurring volatile and water‑soluble compounds, which can influence the fragrance, character and sensoriality of a cosmetic product.
Distilled water is neutral purified water without a distinct fragrance or botanical profile. A hydrosol is a plant‑based water phase that has its own fragrance, specific origin and can add a subtle botanical character to a cosmetic formulation.
Yes, demineralised water can be suitable for cosmetics if it is intended for cosmetic use and is of appropriate quality. In our range you will find demineralised water produced by reverse osmosis, which is suitable as a neutral water phase in creams, toners, serums, gels, emulsions and rinse‑off cosmetics.
No. Not all demineralised water is automatically suitable for cosmetics. Technical demineralised water intended, for example, for irons, windscreen washers or batteries may not be suitable for cosmetic use. When making cosmetics, it is important to use water that is supplied specifically as a cosmetic raw material.
Yes. Demineralised water produced by reverse osmosis is a very good choice for cosmetic formulations, if it is intended for cosmetic use. It has a low mineral content, is neutral and helps reduce the number of unknown variables in the water phase of the formulation.
Tap water is not recommended for cosmetics that are to be stored. It can contain minerals, chlorine, variable pH and a microbiological load that can affect the stability and safety of the product. Distilled water or purified water intended for cosmetic use is more appropriate.
Not automatically. Water sold for irons or other technical purposes is not necessarily suitable for cosmetics. When making cosmetics, you must use water that is intended for cosmetic use and of appropriate quality.
Yes, a hydrosol is often used instead of distilled water in toners, creams, gels, serums and emulsions. When substituting, however, you must take into account the fragrance of the hydrosol, pH, preservation and compatibility with the other components of the formulation.
Yes. A hydrosol can subtly influence the fragrance of a product, because it contains naturally occurring aromatic compounds from the plant. In some products its fragrance can be an advantage, in others it may interfere with the planned perfume profile.
An unpreserved hydrosol can be more risky from the point of view of microbiological stability, because it is a water‑based raw material. It should be stored according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, ideally cool and in the dark, and used as soon as possible after opening. When used in a final cosmetic product, a suitable preservative system must be implemented.
Not always. If a preserved hydrosol is used on its own and the manufacturer intends it for direct use, an additional preservative may not be necessary. However, if the hydrosol becomes part of a more complex formulation with additional aqueous, plant‑based or microbiologically sensitive components, you must reassess preservation of the final product.
Yes, distilled water is suitable for home cosmetics, because it is neutral and predictable. It is used in creams, toners, gels, serums and cleansing products. If the product contains a water phase and is to be stored for longer, however, it must be properly preserved.
In our range you will find distilled water, reverse‑osmosis demineralised water and a wide selection of BIO hydrosols – from rose through lavender and chamomile to mint.
