Yuzu Essential Peel Oil, 5 ml

Yuzu essential oil is obtained from the peel of the fruit of the Japanese citrus Citrus junos and is added to cosmetics mainly for its fresh citrus fragrance. The manufacturer describes it as bright and invigorating. It suits products that should feel clean and fresh in use: body and facial oils, shower gels, shampoos, body or hair mists, as well as fragrance compositions and candles.

Besides its fragrance, the manufacturer attributes antioxidant and antimicrobial properties to it, along with a cooling feel on the skin. This information comes from the supplier and, in the finished product, depends on the usage rate and on the whole formulation. The oil is oil-soluble and does not dissolve in water, which needs to be taken into account when designing the formulation.

What the oil brings to a formulation

• Fragrance – the main function. A fresh citrus note, which the manufacturer recommends for perfumes and aromatic blends because of its invigorating character.
• Antioxidant action – according to the manufacturer, it helps protect the skin from the effects of free radicals and the environment and supports a fresh-looking complexion. In a formulation, this is a supplementary property of the fragrance ingredient.
• Soothing the skin – the manufacturer states that the oil may help reduce redness and soothe irritated skin. These are cosmetic claims made by the supplier, and it is recommended to verify them in the finished product.
• Cooling feel – a refreshing touch on the skin which, according to the manufacturer, is useful in products intended to refresh, for example summer body gels or mists.
• Hair care – the manufacturer recommends it for shampoos, hair oils and mists for a fresh fragrance and a feeling of clean hair.

Use in a formulation

The oil belongs in the oil phase. In anhydrous products, such as body, massage or facial oils, it is simply mixed into the carrier oil. In emulsions it is added cold, only after the finished emulsion has cooled.

In water-based products, such as toners, facial and body mists or hair sprays, it will not dissolve without help. It needs a solubiliser, for example Polysorbate 20 or another solubiliser suitable for essential oils. The oil is first mixed with the solubiliser, and only this mixture is added to the water phase. The clarity of the resulting solution is checked in a test sample; the ratio of solubiliser to oil differs for every formulation.

The usage rate is governed by the IFRA limits for individual product categories (lip products, facial creams, body oils, shampoos, candles and others). These values are listed in the product parameters and formulation is based on them. In shower gels, shampoos and liquid soaps, the oil is mixed into the surfactant base and the result is checked in a test sample.

The oil is clear in appearance, with a colour from orange to orange-red. In white creams, lotions or clear mists, a higher dose may tint the product slightly, so a test sample is recommended.

Suitable for products such as

• Body and massage oils – the simplest use; the oil is mixed directly into the carrier oil.
• Facial oils and oil-based serums – for the fragrance and the properties the manufacturer attributes to it.
• Creams, facial and body lotions – added after the emulsion has cooled.
• Shower gels, shampoos, liquid and solid soaps – the manufacturer lists them among the recommended uses.
• Toners, facial, body and hair mists – with a solubiliser.
• Fragrance compositions and aromatic blends – for a fresh citrus note.
• Candles – the candle category is included in the IFRA limits of the product and the manufacturer lists candles among the uses.

Good to know

Essential oil is not used as a carrier oil or a treatment oil. In a formulation it forms a small fragrance and active component; the rest consists of carrier oil, emulsion or surfactant base.

It differs from a fragrance oil, that is, a fragrance composition, in its origin. A fragrance composition is a blend designed for a specific type of product, whereas Yuzu essential oil is a natural substance obtained from the peel of the Citrus junos fruit.

For candles, it is recommended to test the fragrance intensity and burn quality on a test candle in the specific wax, while observing the IFRA limit for candles.

Frequently asked questions