DYES AND FRAGRANCES

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ESSENTIAL OILS

 

Very popular and long time favourite essential oils have many uses in cosmetic or massage preparations and aromatherapy. Find out more about them with us.

 

Source: Adobe Stock 

 

 PRODUCTION OF ESSENTIAL OILS

 

Have you ever wondered how to extract essential oil from a bunch of lavender or other plant too? Actually, it is not a very difficult process, however, it is quite lengthy. In fact, essential oils are extracted by steam distillation from the plant parts in question. The water vapour that passes through the plant matter takes all the volatile substances, including the essential oils, with it. These, together with the steam, condense in the condenser and drip into a collection container. After a certain amount of time (and after several dozen kilos of plant material have been processed), two layers can be observed. The upper one is formed by essential oils and the lower one by hydrolates, which is why this process is used not only for the production of essential oils but also for the production of floral waters.

 

 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ESSENTIAL AND FRAGRANCE OILS

 

Many people often confuse essential oils (also known as essential oils or essential oils) and fragrance oils. Although these two types of fragrance oils have the same function in beauty products, there is one major difference. Namely, the way they are obtained. Fragrance oils are synthetically prepared (sometimes a mixture made up of synthetic volatile substances with the addition ofm vegetable, i.e. the fragrance oil may also contain some of the essential oils), for this reason they can be cheaper. On the other hand, they do not have the aromatherapeutic, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and other healing effects of essential oils.

 

Don't be fooled by the name natural fragrance oils. They are still synthetically prepared oils, except that the chemical compounds imparting the aroma are identical to those found in nature.

 

SOURCES OF ESSENTIAL OILS

 

Essential oils are extracted from plants that contain them in their tissues. It would seem that this is how to get essential oils from any plant. However, this is not the case. Only certain types of herbs and trees produce these strongly scented oils in sufficient quantities to be distilled. Other plants contain too few of them and extracting the essential oil would not be economical or contain them at all.

 

What to do when you want essential oil from a plant that doesn't produce it? Reach for essential oils. These synthetically prepared fragrance oils can mimic the scent of almost anything. While they're not made from plants, you get a wide variety of scents to choose from. So if you can't give up your favourite fruity or floral scent, fragrance oils can be an interesting alternative.

 

STORAGE ESSENTIAL OILS

 

Although essential oils do not contain water, they cannot be stored indefinitely and will also deteriorate over time. In the case of oils, this is a yellowing process (most often oxidation), which you can recognize by the fact that the oils lose their color and fragrance, and should not be used in this state.

 

But how to extend the shelf life of essential oils? The key is to store them away from light in dark bottles. High temperatures are also harmful to oils, so store them in a cooler place and make sure they are well sealed so that the oils are not unnecessarily exposed to oxygen from the air, which promotes oxidation.

 

Do not store essential oils in plastic bottles, as these also consist of organic matter like essential oils and could react negatively with each other or absorb into the packaging material. Adverse reactions can also be caused by storage in metal containers (the exception being those covered with a protective coating, most often polymer or epoxy). For this reason, it is a good idea not to drip oils on metal spoons. The most ideal material for storage is dark glass.

 

 DOSAGE OF ESSENTIAL OILS

 

The percentage of essential oils in the final product depends not only on the intensity of fragrance you want to achieve, but more importantly on the use of the product. Rinsing products (shampoos, shower gels) may contain a higher percentage of essential oils because they do not remainthey do not stay on the skin for a long time, the opposite is true for products that you do not rinse off after application and leave on the skin (creams, body lotions, etc.).).

 

- Shampoos, shower gels and bath cosmetics 1-4 %

- Facial cosmetics 0,1 - 1,5 %

- Massage oils and products 1.5 - 3 %

- Body lotions max. 1,5 %

 

Theoptimal dosage also depends on the skin type. More sensitive skin may not tolerate higher concentrations of essential oils well. At the same time, essential oils can cause allergies. Therefore, if you know in advance that you suffer from an allergy to the plant from which the essential oil comes, you should choose another one.

 

At the same time, try to avoid dosing essential oils by the drop. If you need to add the exact amount of essential oil, you will never get it by dripping. This is because each oil has a different density and thus a different drop weight. The most accurate method is to use a scale and weigh out in grams the amount of essential oil you need. This is the only way to achieve the same properties of your products when you make them again and again.

 

TIPS AND TRICKS WHEN USING ESSENTIAL OILS

 

Incorporating into a recipe

 

When making cosmetics, there are a few rules when adding essential oils. For cold made products, always add them to the oil phase and mix well. If you are making a hot emulsion or other product that requires heating to produce, always add the essential oils in the cooling phase (e.g. after the emulsion has formed). High temperatures can cause excessive evaporation of the essential oils or damage (decomposition).

 

If you want to create your own perfume or lotion, i.e. any product that contains water in the vast majority (or hydrolates, glycerin, etc.) and a small amount of essential oils, you need a solubilizer (solvent). These are substances that allow the oil droplets to disperse into the aqueous phase and you get a transparent emulsion. An example is Symbio Solv Clear Plus.

 

Refer to the product description of each solubilizer for the recommended dosage range. Sometimes you need to experiment for a while to find out how much solubilizer from the recommended range to add to create a clear emulsion with a given essential oil. This is because in some cases, milky haze will form in the product, so don't worry if you don't hit the right dose on the first try.

 

Vitamin E

 

Tocopherol, or vitamin E, is a powerful antioxidant that is often added to products containing oils. This is no different for products with essential oils. Vitamin E helps extend the shelf life of essential oils by slowing the oxidation process. However, it is not a preservative.

 

Application to the skin

 

Essential oils are concentrated extracts from plants, so they are not intended for direct application to the skin. They can only be applied to the skin in diluted form in carrier oils (e.g. almond or apricot), creams or cosmetics. Application of undiluted essential oil may cause irritation, even an allergic reaction in more sensitive people.