Isoamyl Laurate, 5000 ml

Isoamyl Laurate is a lightweight plant-derived ester oil that gives creams, serums and hair care products a dry, fast-spreading feel without a greasy film. In a formulation it functions as an emollient, carrier and conditioning ingredient, and in natural cosmetics it replaces silicone oils such as Dimethicone or Cyclopentasiloxane. It is produced by esterification of lauric acid from palm oil with isoamyl alcohol, which is obtained by fermentation of sugarcane. Both components come from renewable sources, the raw material meets COSMOS Approved and NATRUE Approved standards, and the palm fraction is RSPO MB certified.

Key benefits

• Lightweight, non-greasy feel – spreads quickly on the skin and leaves a dry, smooth touch, just like silicone oils.
• Silicone replacement – in the manufacturer's sensory study, volunteers rated an O/W emulsion containing Isoamyl Laurate similarly to emulsions with Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane. Sunflower oil as a rich, nourishing emollient performed markedly differently in the same test.
• Oxidation resistance – unlike many plant oils, it does not undergo oxidation, so it does not change colour or develop an undesirable odour over time.
• Colourless and odourless – it is virtually colourless and odourless, and does not alter the shade or scent of the finished product. Particularly useful in light emulsions and lightly fragranced products.
• Solvent for active ingredients – as a polar ester it dissolves oil-soluble actives and UV filters. It also improves pigment wetting, allowing them to disperse more quickly.
• Conditioning ingredient for hair – effective in shampoos and conditioners at a dosage of as little as 0.5–1.5%.

Use in formulation

It is added to the oil phase or post-added to the finished product. It is miscible with all types of oils and is compatible with electrolytes, preservatives and fragrances.

Indicative dosage is 1–20% as an emollient in skin and body care, and 0.5–1.5% as a conditioning ingredient in hair cosmetics. The suitable formulation pH range is 4.0–8.0, and it is processed at temperatures up to 80 °C.

In emulsions, it is mixed into the oil phase before combining the phases, after which the phases are homogenised. It is added to shampoos and conditioners only to the finished formulation. In hair and facial oils, it is sufficient to thoroughly mix it with the other oil-soluble ingredients.

Suitable for products such as

• Lightweight day creams and O/W emulsions – for a dry, non-shiny feel, especially where Dimethicone would otherwise be used.
• Dry oils and oil serums – lightens heavier plant oils and speeds up their spreading.
• Body lotions – quick application over a larger skin area.
• Colour cosmetics and tinted creams – helps wet and disperse pigments.
• Sun care products – dissolves oil-soluble UV filters.
• Hair oils, conditioners and shampoos – conditioning ingredient at low dosage.

Suitable for both rinse-off and leave-on products for face, body and hair.

Good to know

The combination of Isoamyl Laurate with certain UV filters is described in European patent EP2421614B1. When developing sun care products intended for sale, verify whether the patent applies to your formulation.

The raw material is not classified as hazardous under CLP regulation, contains no materials of animal origin, fragrance allergens or GMO-derived components, and has not been tested on animals.

Isoamyl Laurate or silicone

Silicone oils have no place in cosmetics certified to COSMOS or NATRUE standards. Isoamyl Laurate delivers a similarly light, smooth and non-greasy feel, yet comes from plant-based sources and is biodegradable. Compared to conventional plant oils, it has the advantage of stability: it does not yellow, does not go rancid and does not burden the formulation with its own scent. A rich, nourishing feel remains the domain of plant oils. To lighten a heavy emulsion or oil serum, this ester is exactly what is needed.

Frequently asked questions