PCA Glyceryl Oleate, 50 g

PCA Glyceryl Oleate is a natural cationic conditioning ingredient for shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks. It combines two substances that on their own offer little to hair: PCA, a component of the skin's natural moisturising factor, and glyceryl oleate. Once joined in a single molecule, the ingredient binds to the hair and envelops it in a protective layer. Hair feels soft and smooth after washing and absorbs less water.

In hair care it replaces silicones and quaternary ammonium compounds, which natural cosmetics do not permit. It conditions and protects the skin of the face, body, and scalp, making it suitable for facial and body preparations as well as shower and bath products.

How it works on hair

PCA alone binds to the hair shaft, but it is too small to coat and protect it. Glyceryl oleate alone coats the hair, but does not stay on the surface and washes off with subsequent washing. The combined molecule takes the best from each part: it binds firmly to the hair, preferentially at damaged areas, while simultaneously enveloping it in a hydrophobic film. Frequent washing and wetting then does less damage.

A second function is also of interest to formulators. The ingredient acts as an anchor for conditioning oils. Argan or another vegetable oil that would rinse out of a shampoo without effect is retained on the hair with its help, forming a protective film. The result is soft, silky hair without silicones.

Key benefits

• Hair conditioning – binds to the hair surface and smooths it; hair feels soft and silky after washing.
• Protection against water – increases the hydrophobicity of the hair so less water is absorbed during washing, and frequent washing causes less damage.
• Retaining oils on the hair – conditioning oils in a shampoo or conditioner are not rinsed away uselessly; the ingredient anchors them to the hair.
• Skin conditioning – in facial and body preparations it smooths and protects the skin.
• Natural origin – readily biodegradable ingredient with no fragrance allergens.

Use in formulation

The ingredient is oil-soluble and insoluble in water. In emulsions it is added to the oil phase; in shampoos and shower gels it is incorporated directly into the surfactant phase. Processing temperature should remain below 80 °C.

The recommended usage level is 0.5 – 2 %. The suitable pH of the finished preparation is 4 – 7, i.e. the mildly acidic to neutral range.

The ingredient has a cationic character. Compatibility with common formulation ingredients is unrestricted; however, we recommend verifying stability and viscosity in the specific surfactant system. The ingredient is yellow to brown; in clear and light-coloured products, check the effect on the colour of the finished preparation at higher usage levels.

Suitable for products such as

• Shampoos – primary application; conditions during washing.
• Rinse-out and leave-in conditioners – smoothing and protecting hair during everyday care.
• Hair masks and treatments for damaged hair – the molecule binds preferentially to damaged areas.
• Scalp preparations – conditioning effect on both the scalp and hair.
• Shower and bath products – skin conditioning during washing.
• Facial and body creams and oils – conditioning and protecting skin in the oil phase.

Good to know

Do not confuse this ingredient with glyceryl oleate alone. Glyceryl oleate on its own coats the hair but washes off during washing. PCA Glyceryl Oleate has glyceryl oleate bound to PCA in the molecule, which keeps it on the hair. In formulation it therefore serves as a conditioning ingredient.

The ingredient is suitable for natural cosmetics, where silicones and quaternary ammonium compounds are not permitted. It contains no materials of animal origin and was not produced using GMOs.

Frequently asked questions