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After a day spent in the sun, the skin deserves an extra dose of care. That is exactly why today we bring you a recipe from the talented formulator Simona, whom you may know from Instagram as si.nature.
Simona focuses on creating natural cosmetics, shares her own formulations, formulation tips and shows how high-quality cosmetic products can be created even at home. You can find her work on Instagram: @si.nature
This time she has prepared for us a gentle regenerating after-sun cream that helps to soothe stressed skin, supports its renewal and at the same time provides pleasant hydration without a greasy feel. In the formulation you will find a combination of fermented extract from Centella Asiatica, panthenol, sodium PCA and nourishing plant oils, which together create ideal care after summer days in the sun.
If you enjoy formulating your own cosmetics or are looking for inspiration for summer skin care, this recipe is definitely worth trying.
After a day in the sun, the skin asks for more than just hydration — it needs soothing, renewal and gentle care that will not weigh it down.
After a day spent in the sun, the skin needs more than just hydration. Heat, UV radiation and wind disrupt the skin barrier, the skin is sensitive, reddened and tight. This gentle regenerating cream soothes the skin, supports its renewal and at the same time leaves it soft without a greasy film.
The main star of the recipe is Centella asiatica — a plant known for its regenerating and soothing effects. In combination with panthenol, sodium PCA and nourishing oils, it creates ideal care after sun exposure.
The formulation combines soothing active ingredients with nourishing plant oils. Each component has its place in the cream — some soothe and regenerate the skin, others provide moisture and restore the lipid barrier.
The fermented centella extract supports skin regeneration and helps to relieve irritation.
Panthenol soothes and hydrates.
Sodium PCA helps to retain water in the skin.
Cupuaçu butter leaves the skin soft and protected.
The combination of macadamia oil, jojoba and squalane restores the lipid barrier without a feeling of heaviness.
The delicate scent of lavender and geranium has a relaxing, summery effect.
Centella Asiatica is among the most popular plant-based ingredients in modern cosmetics. The fermented aqueous extract combines the plant character of centella with fermentative processing — in this cream it is the main active ingredient that helps to soothe stressed skin and support its renewal after sun exposure.
Typical use: regenerating creams, soothing serums, facial toners and after-sun care.
The formulation is divided into three phases — oil phase A, water phase B and active ingredients in phase C, which are added only to the cooled emulsion. The values in percent correspond to grams when preparing 100 g of cream.
Before starting, thoroughly disinfect all tools, containers and packaging. When manufacturing emulsions, cleanliness is absolutely essential.
Weigh phase A and phase B into two separate containers.
Heat both phases in a water bath to approximately 70 °C, until all the ingredients are completely dissolved.
While stirring continuously, very slowly pour the water phase (B) into the oil phase (A). Stir for long enough until a smooth and homogeneous emulsion forms.
Allow the emulsion to cool under occasional stirring below 40 °C.
Prepare the ingredients of phase C separately in a small container and gradually incorporate them into the emulsion. After each addition, mix the cream well.
The final pH of the cream should be approximately 5 – 5.5.
Fill the finished cream into a disinfected, ideally sterile container. For summer emulsions, airless dispensers are very practical, as they help to keep the product hygienic and stable.
Practical questions regarding this recipe — pH, production phases, preservation and options for adjusting the formulation for sensitive skin.
The final pH should be approximately 5 – 5.5, which corresponds to the physiological pH of the skin. If the value is lower, it can be slightly increased with a small amount of L-arginine. Always measure the pH only in the cooled emulsion.
Phase C is added only to the emulsion cooled to below 40 °C. More sensitive active ingredients, the fermented extract and essential oils can lose effectiveness at higher temperatures, which is why they are not included in the hot oil or water phase.
The formulation contains the preservative Cosgard, which protects the water-based emulsion. When stored in a cool place and in hygienic packaging, it usually lasts several months. An airless dispenser will extend the shelf life, and monitor any changes in colour, scent or texture.
Airless packaging does not allow air and fingers to get into the product. For summer emulsions with a higher proportion of water phase it reduces the risk of contamination and helps to keep the cream stable for longer.
For sensitive skin you can omit both geranium and lavender completely. The cream will remain functional — just without fragrance. Simply replace the percentages of essential oils with demineralised water or a hydrolate.
You can add aloe vera extract to the formulation or replace demineralised water with cucumber hydrolate. Both components give the skin a pleasant cooling and soothing sensation after sun exposure.
The fermented centella extract, panthenol, sodium PCA and nourishing plant oils for this cream can be found directly in our range. You just need to choose and start creating.
