Varisoft BTMS-25, 100 g

Varisoft BTMS-25 is a cationic conditioning emulsifier for hair cosmetics: conditioners, masks and hair creams. It serves two purposes at once. It creates a stable O/W emulsion and at the same time provides a conditioning effect to hair, resulting in easier detangling and reduced static. In formulations, it therefore often replaces the combination of an emulsifier plus a separate conditioning ingredient.

The base of this ingredient is Behentrimonium Methosulfate in combination with Cetearyl Alcohol, which gives the emulsion body and a creamy consistency. The botanical sources are rapeseed and oil palm; the palm component holds RSPO MB certification. It is worked into formulations hot, in the oil phase, without the need for an additional emulsifier.

Key benefits

• Conditioning and detangling – hair detangles more easily after rinsing and tangles less. This is especially appreciated by dry, damaged and curly hair.
• Antistatic effect – reduces static in hair after drying, making it suitable for leave-in creams and styling products as well.
• Emulsifier and consistency in one – Cetearyl Alcohol gives the emulsion thickness and a creamy character.
• Skin hydration – in body and facial creams for dry skin it supports hydration.
• Readily biodegradable – according to OECD 301 test.

Use in formulation

It is added to the oil phase and melted together with the other oils and butters at 65 – 70 °C. Heat the water phase to the same temperature, combine both phases and stir the emulsion until it cools. The consistency will set only after it has fully cooled, so assess thickness no earlier than the following day.

The recommended dosage is 2 – 10 %. At the lower end, a light rinse-out conditioner or thin emulsion is produced; at higher dosages, a thick mask or leave-in cream with a more pronounced conditioning effect. With a smaller proportion of oils, a conditioner is obtained that will not weigh down fine hair.

Keep the finished product at pH 3.5 – 5.5. The ingredient is compatible with cationic and non-ionic surfactants and tolerates acidic and neutral pH. Verify combinations with anionic surfactants in the finished formulation. The emulsion contains water, so a preservative is required. When selecting one, check compatibility with the cationic system.

Suitable for products such as

• Rinse-out conditioners – primary use, dosage in the lower to mid range.
• Hair masks and intensive treatments – higher dosage, longer contact time on hair.
• Leave-in conditioners and creams – for dry and curly hair, where the antistatic effect is beneficial.
• Body and facial creams for dry skin – supports hydration in O/W creamy emulsions.
• Curl definition creams – in combination with other film-forming ingredients.

Good to know

Varisoft BTMS-25 is cationic and therefore behaves differently from common non-ionic emulsifiers. Check the compatibility of every additional ingredient, especially thickeners and preservatives, with the cationic environment. The ingredient is subject to CLP classification; when working with the concentrate, follow the instructions in the safety data sheet.

Do not stir the emulsion too quickly at high temperature, to avoid incorporating air into it. Add heat-sensitive ingredients (proteins, extracts, essential oils, fragrance compositions) only to the cooled emulsion, with continuous stirring. Always confirm the result with a stability test at room temperature and under refrigerated conditions.

Frequently asked questions