Xanthan Gum, 50 g

Xanthan gum thickens and stabilises the water phase of cosmetic formulations. Water combined with up to 1 % of the powder produces a gel that holds its shape, does not run and helps keep an emulsion together. It is used in both home and professional production, as it handles a wide pH range, tolerates surfactants, electrolytes and alcohol, and can be worked cold.

A thickener of natural origin from European production, suitable for formulations for the face, body, hands, hair and scalp, for all skin types.

What it is suitable for

• Thickening aqueous formulations – turns a toner, hydrolat or aqueous solution of active ingredients into a serum or gel that can be dispensed and applied without running.
• Emulsion stabilisation – increases the viscosity of the water phase and slows the separation of oil droplets, so a cream or lotion is more resistant to phase separation.
• Rheology modifier – alters the texture behaviour: the gel holds its shape in the container and spreads across the skin on application.
• Particle carrier – in a thickened gel, exfoliant particles, flowers or pearls remain suspended instead of sinking to the bottom.
• Thickening surfactant products – tolerates anionic, amphoteric, cationic and non-ionic surfactants, making it suitable for use in shower gels, shampoos and cleansing gels.

Use in formulation

It is added to the water phase, where the powder first disperses and then swells. It does not dissolve instantly; viscosity builds gradually as the powder hydrates. The recommended usage level is 0.1 – 1.0 %: at the lower end the result is a fluid serum or stabilised emulsion, at the upper end a firm gel. It thickens in the range of pH 3 – 12, working equally well in acidic toners with AHA acids and in alkaline cleansing formulations.

It is processed cold. If the formulation requires heating, the temperature should remain below 80 °C. In emulsions it is dispersed into the water phase before combining with the oil phase, and the viscosity is adjusted after cooling as needed.

It tolerates electrolytes and alcohol, so the viscosity of the gel does not drop after adding salt solutions, salts of active ingredients or alcoholic extracts. At higher alcohol content, check the final consistency in the finished formulation, as it depends on the ratio of water to alcohol.

Suitable for products such as

• facial serums and gels with water-soluble active ingredients,
• gel creams and light lotions for the face and body,
• thickened hydrolats and toners,
• shower gels, shampoos and cleansing gels for the scalp,
• gel masks and scrubs with suspended particles,
• creams and emulsions where it serves as a stabiliser.

What is good to know

A thickened gel contains water and therefore requires preservation like any aqueous formulation. The preservative is added after the gel is complete; verify that it does not alter the viscosity.

At higher concentrations, the gel may feel tacky on the skin, particularly in leave-on products. Tackiness can be reduced by lowering the concentration, combining with another thickener or adding an oil or emollient to the formulation.

Depending on the concentration and quality of dispersion, the gel ranges from clear to slightly hazy. Air bubbles from intensive mixing will disappear once the gel has been left to stand for a few hours.

It is not suitable for anhydrous oil-based formulations; it only thickens aqueous environments.

Frequently asked questions