Cocoa Butter, Natural Unrefined, Organic, 100 g

Unrefined cocoa butter in BIO quality gives body butters, balms and lip balms firmness and protects the skin from moisture loss. It is pressed from cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) originating from Peru. In a formulation it works as an emollient: it softens the skin and creates a protective layer on it that limits water evaporation. Since it has not been refined, it retains its delicate chocolate scent and a colour ranging from yellow to ivory.

It is suitable for products intended for the body, hands, hair and scalp. The manufacturer recommends it for dry, normal, sensitive and baby skin. It contains no preservatives or palm oil ingredients.

What it brings to the formulation

• Skin softening and protection – the fat stays on the skin surface, smooths it and slows down water evaporation. The manufacturer states that it supports hydration and leaves the skin soft and supple.
• Nourishment and soothing – according to the manufacturer's documentation it contains natural antioxidants and has a soothing effect on the skin. It is therefore included in products for dry areas, such as hand care.
• Hair conditioning – in masks and leave-in products it softens the hair shaft and makes detangling easier. The manufacturer states that it reduces moisture loss from both the hair and the scalp.
• Structure and consistency – palmitic and stearic acid together make up more than half of the fatty acid profile. The butter is therefore solid at room temperature and gives firmness to anhydrous products.
• Natural scent – unrefined butter smells of cocoa and in non-fragranced formulations forms the scent of the finished product.

Use in formulation

Cocoa butter belongs in the oil phase. It is insoluble in water and dissolves in oils and fats. In emulsions it melts together with the other oils and the emulsifier, and combines with the water phase during emulsification. In anhydrous products it melts with the other butters, waxes and oils. The finished mixture is poured into containers or whipped.

The recommended processing temperature is up to 40 °C. The butter melts with gentle heating, so neither prolonged nor intense heating is necessary. The manufacturer gives a dosage range of 1 – 100 %: from a few percent in creams and lotions to tens of percent in body butters and lip balms, up to pure butter without any additions.

At a higher concentration it gives products pronounced firmness. If a body butter is to be spreadable straight from the jar, it is combined with softer butters (shea, mango) or with liquid oils. Alone or in combination with wax it forms the base of massage bars and solid balms that melt only on contact with the skin.

In cold process soap it is added as part of the fat blend, where it increases the hardness of the soap. For the lye calculation, the saponification value of 188 – 198 stated in the product specification is used.

Suitable for products such as

• Body butters and balms – a key ingredient that provides firmness and a long-lasting protective film.
• Lip balms and lip bars – combined with wax and oils it creates a solid yet spreadable product with a delicate cocoa scent.
• Creams and body lotions – at lower concentrations it enriches the oil phase and enhances the nourishing feel after application.
• Massage bars and oils – melts with the warmth of the hands and allows longer gliding on the skin.
• Hair masks and leave-in products for hair ends – a small amount softens the hair and makes detangling easier.
• Soaps and bath products – in cold process soap it firms the bar; in bath bombs or bath bars it leaves a protective layer on the skin.

What is good to know

Unrefined butter has a pronounced scent and a yellowish to creamy colour. This should be taken into account in white or lightly fragranced products, as the cocoa note will not disappear from the mixture. The colour ranges from a deeper yellow to ivory, which is natural for an unrefined raw material.

As a pure fat it contains no water, so in anhydrous products it does not require a preservative. In emulsions and products with a water phase the usual need for preservation applies according to the full formulation. The manufacturer's documentation recommends the butter primarily for body and hair care.

Frequently asked questions