RAW MATERIALS

COSMETIC CLAYS

Products containing cosmetic clays and minerals have become a big hit in cosmetics in recent years. Natural cosmetic clays have several benefits for the skin, but just like any other raw material, cosmetic clays are subject to certain rules when incorporating them into a product. Learn more about cosmetic clays in the following article.

Cosmetic clays are great for creating nourishing face masks. Get inspired
and create a Powder Face Mask by following our blog tutorial.

Kozmetické íly v zelenej farbe a práškovej aj tekutej forme, ležia na stole v miskách so zelenou vetvičkou vedľa seba.

Source

WHAT ARE COSMETIC CLAYS?

The term cosmetic clays refers to a large group of natural minerals with different compositions or crystal structures. The most common element found in cosmetic clays is silica, as most clays are silicate minerals with varying levels of impurities. These include magnesium, manganese, calcium and iron, which give cosmetic clays their characteristic colours or properties. A common feature is that cosmetic clays are often finely ground for easy incorporation into cosmetics.

However, clays do not only have a cosmetic use. They are an essential part of porcelain and ceramics production, and are also used in construction and other types of industry. There are very many different types of clays, and so you will come across a number of different names for them. Some cosmetic clays even have more than one name because their trivial names (such as those used commercially) do not follow chemical nomenclature.

COSMETIC CLAYS AND THEIR USE IN COSMETICS

There are several reasons why cosmetic clays are so popular in cosmetics. First of all, they are known for their high mineral content and so provide nourishment to the skin, which is why you will often find them as part of masks or scrubs. They also help to degrease the skin, and some types are able to bind impurities to themselves, making cosmetic clays indispensable in skincare
for oily and acne-prone skin.

Thanks to their cleansing properties, many cosmetic clays remove not only impurities but also dead skin cells, and so in finely ground form they can be an alternative to mechanical peels for sensitive skin. Cosmetic clays also help to smooth the skin or even out skin tone.

In addition to being good at adsorbing oil, some types of cosmetic clays are able to bind water molecules to themselves, thereby increasing their volume. They also bind odours and fragrances to themselves, helping to keep perfume and fragrance ingredients in the product for longer, as cosmetic clays slow their release.

Many times they are also used in modifying the texture of products. Cosmetic clays make it possible to thicken different types of products, while also improving the feel of the products on the skin when they are spread.

COSMETIC CLAYS - CONTAMINANTS AND IMPURITIES

Since cosmetic clays are minerals that are extracted from nature, it goes without saying that they may also contain impurities. These are most often other types of minerals or elements with which they occur together in nature. The content of these substances therefore varies depending on the place of extraction and also on the way in which the resulting clay is processed and cleaned. For this reason, it is a good idea to buy clays labelled as cosmetic clays, as clays for industrial use are not subject to such high requirements in terms of purity and quality.

The second problem faced by cosmetic clays is microbial contamination. Since cosmetic clays consist of minerals that are essential for the growth of micro-organisms, they provide an ideal environment for the growth of micro-organisms when the humidity is suitable. Therefore, the production of cosmetic clays should also include a decontamination process whereby the number of micro-organisms contained in the cosmetic clays is reduced by various methods. The most common methods are autoclaving (sterilisation by moist heat, i.e. hot steam under pressure), the use of ozone or gamma radiation (however, cosmetic clays decontaminated by gamma radiation often exclude the product from being labelled as natural).

PRESERVATION AND COSMETIC CLAYS

Microbial contamination is also related to the issue of preservation of products containing cosmetic clays, as clays are a suitable medium for the growth of microbes. Therefore, even a perfectly decontaminated cosmetic clay, when exposed to micro-organisms during manufacture (it is impossible to achieve absolute environmental sterility in a domestic environment), can cause product spoilage if preserved incorrectly.

The spoilage of products containing cosmetic clays is primarily due to water, which is essential for the growth of micro-organisms. It is therefore advisable to store products containing cosmetic clays in dry form, i.e. in the form of powders without water, and to add water only when the product is applied. This simply avoids the problems of preserving products that have cosmetic clays incorporated in them. Products that contain both water and cosmetic clays must be preserved with strong broad spectrum preservatives at the highest concentration allowed, but even this may not guarantee long-term storage of such a product.

If you want to enjoy the benefits of clay masks or scrubs, prepare them in powder form and add water only at the time of application. Similarly, you can also make a powdered skin cleanser using solid loose tensides and cosmetic clays. Be sure to seal the containers of these products well to prevent wetness, and also be careful not to scoop the powder with wet hands.

MIXED COSMETIC CLAYS

Cosmetic clays are found on the market in pure form, but you may also come across mixtures containing different cosmetic clays, and there are two types of mixtures. In the first case, only different types of pure cosmetic clays make up the mixture. However, there are also mixtures of cosmetic clays where a colouring agent is added to the clay to achieve the desired shade of clay. With such clays, which have not acquired their colour from their natural mineral content, there is a risk that you can easily exceed the maximum dose of colouring agent suitable for the skin (especially if the manufacturer has not specified the concentration).

Therefore, always check the INCI (ingredients) of the clay; dyes should often be listed under the abbreviation Cl followed by a number.

COSMETIC CLAYS - TYPES

Cosmetic clays are usually divided into three broad groups depending on their properties.

KAOLIN COSMETIC CLAYS

Kaolin cosmetic clays include the common siliceous clays most commonly found in cosmetics. Their main ingredient is aluminium silicate - the mineral kaolinite, which forms the rock kaolin, often used as a cosmetic clay. You can find them in different colour variations.

White kaolin

This type of kaolin is very widely used in cosmetics. It has a distinctive snow-white colour, in addition to containing a large amount of silica and being able to bind impurities to the surface of its particles.

Like other cosmetic clays, it is immiscible with oils. It is mined all over the world, with important deposits mainly in France. It binds fragrances well and thus keeps them in the product, in addition to having anti-inflammatory properties.

Australian olive green clay

This pleasantly soft green coloured cosmetic clay is a mixture of quartz and kaolin. The addition of minerals ensures its interesting colour. Green cosmetic clay is one of the most effective clays for oily and problematic skin. It binds grease and impurities very well, so it can be drying for dry skin. Its high silica content helps regenerate the skin, which is why it can also be found in cellulite products.

ILLITE COSMETIC CLAYS

This type of clay gets its name from Illinois, the place where it was discovered. Illite cosmetic clays are among the minerals that are abundant in the shells of marine animals and their sediments. They exist, like kaolin cosmetic clays, in different colors depending on the mineral content.

Yellow illite

Yellow illite is one of the most distinctive and unmistakable cosmetic clays. Its mineral content makes it stand out with its colour. Like other cosmetic clays, it is also suitable for the care of problematic skin and contains anti-inflammatory substances and tightens pores. It has strong detoxifying properties and is one of the milder types of clay suitable for dry and sensitive skin.

Red illite

Thanks to its high content of iron oxides, this type of illite acquires its distinctive red colour. Red illite can be used in the care of sensitive skin, helping to tighten pores, even skin tone and reduce redness. The place where red illite comes from is northern France. It is suitable for mature skin as it improves the appearance of wrinkles.

Pink illite

Again, this is a cosmetic clay suitable for delicate skin originating from the regions of France. The base is a mixture of illite with white kaolin. Pink illite has a soft velvety texture and helps to care for all skin types, but especially suits delicate and sensitive skin. It helps to detoxify the skin and in the form of a massage, improves circulation in the skin.

MONTMORILLONITE COSMETIC CLAYS

Like many other cosmetic clays, Montmorillonite clays get their name from the place of their discovery - Montmorillonite in France. These are clay minerals that bind water well and swell intensely. They occur in several variations.

Bentonite

Bentonite has an irreplaceable place among clays, especially since its overflowing produces many other Montmorillonite cosmetic clays. In addition, bentonite also contains volcanic ash and has a characteristic grey colour.

When added to water, bentonite swells and increases in volume. It helps to detoxify and purify the skin. Bentonite can be used for all skin types, but it is particularly suitable for problematic and acne-prone skin.

Australian montmorillonite

This fine grey-brown cosmetic clay is a blend of montmorillonite with many minerals such as zinc, magnesium and calcium that are important in skin nutrition and care. When massaged, it helps to stimulate the circulation of blood and lymph, which is why it is used in the fight against cellulite. It is used for all skin types.

Moroccan rhassoul clay

The well-known Moroccan cosmetic clay, unmissable for its delicate red colour, is obtained by mining in the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. It contains a high mineral content and has an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin. It is an extremely good adsorbent and an excellent detoxifying agent. You will find it many times in luxury cosmetic products. Thanks to its high silicon content, it helps to reduce the signs of skin ageing.