Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, solubiliser, 50 ml

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a PEG-free solubiliser of plant origin that incorporates small amounts of essential oils, fragrance compositions or oil components into aqueous products while keeping them clear or only slightly hazy. In a formulation it also acts as a co-emulsifier and co-surfactant: in O/W emulsions it reduces viscosity and in wash-off products it softens the feel on the skin after rinsing. It is particularly suited to toners, micellar waters, light face and body milks, shampoos and shower gels when a formulator is looking for an alternative to ethoxylated solubilisers.

The raw material is based on a non-ionic monoester of ten units of glycerin and lauric acid from coconut. Plant-based glycerin is polymerised by mild condensation, and the polar part of the molecule is then esterified with lauric acid. The medium-length fatty chain gives the molecule just enough non-polar character to result in an HLB value of approximately 16.

Key properties

• Solubilisation of fragrance and essential oils – the polyglycerol head of the molecule occupies a large area at the phase interface, resulting in very fine oil droplets and a solution that remains clear or only slightly hazy.
• PEG-free and ethylene oxide-free – ethoxylation is not used in production, the raw material is of plant origin and readily biodegradable (OECD 301).
• Reduction of O/W emulsion viscosity – at a dosage of 1.5 – 3 % it allows preparation of a thin, easily spreadable emulsion without affecting its stability.
• Milder feel in wash-off products – as a co-surfactant it leaves a non-sticky and non-greasy feel on the skin and, according to the manufacturer's data, can reduce the irritancy of harsher surfactants in a blend.
• Broad compatibility – it is compatible with anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic and cationic surfactants and works in acidic, neutral and alkaline pH.

Use in formulation

Solubiliser. The amount needed for a clear solution depends on the nature of the oil. More polar oils dissolve at a lower dosage; non-polar components require more solubiliser. The indicative ratio oil : solubiliser is 1 : 8 to 1 : 15; with some oils, clarity is only achieved by adding ethanol. Order matters: the oil is first thoroughly mixed with the solubiliser, then water is added, and finally ethanol if needed.

Co-emulsifier. In O/W emulsions it is added to the aqueous phase before homogenisation at a dosage of 1.5 – 3 %. The result is a lower viscosity, which is suitable for face and body milks. It does not replace the primary emulsifier; it complements it.

Co-surfactant. In shampoos and shower gels it is blended with the other surfactants and added to the aqueous phase. Dosage ranges from 1 – 30 % depending on the product type.

The raw material is more viscous in its pure form; gentle warming will help when weighing and blending. Processing is recommended at temperatures up to 80 °C.

Suitable for products such as

• Facial toners and micellar waters with essential oils or fragrance compositions.
• Light face and body milks with low viscosity.
• Shampoos, shower gels and bath preparations where the surfactant blend should act more gently.
• Products for sensitive and children's skin, both rinse-off and leave-on.

Good to know

The appearance of the finished solution ranges from completely clear to slightly hazy. If the formulation requires full clarity, test the specific oil in a small quantity and adjust the ratio or add ethanol based on the result.

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate does not contain a preservative, so aqueous products containing it must be preserved in the usual way.

The difference between a solubiliser and an emulsifier

A solubiliser creates a clear or near-clear system with very fine droplets from a small amount of oil in water. An emulsifier combines a larger amount of oil phase with water into an opaque emulsion and also gives it texture. With its HLB 16 value, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate sits on the solubiliser side, so in an emulsion it acts only as an auxiliary component that adjusts viscosity.

Frequently asked questions