Spruce Hemlock Essential Oil, 10 ml

Hemlock spruce essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the needles of the North American conifer Tsuga canadensis, known in Slovak as jedľovec kanadský. In a formulation it does two jobs at once: it gives the product a forest fragrance and also acts as an active ingredient with a soothing and slightly warming character. It is most useful in massage and body oils, creams, and hair and scalp products.

The manufacturer describes the fragrance as earthy and woody. In English-speaking countries this oil is sold as hemlock spruce. The Slovak name Jedľa smreková refers to a resemblance to fir and spruce, but botanically the tree belongs to the genus Tsuga, not to the European spruces or firs. The oil contains no added alcohol or preservatives.

What it brings to a formulation

• Soothing the skin – according to the manufacturer, the oil has soothing properties and helps to ease redness and a feeling of irritation. It makes the most sense in body and face products.
• Warming sensation – the manufacturer states that it creates a mild warming feeling on the skin. This is why the manufacturer recommends it for massage oils and creams intended for relaxation.
• Scalp and hair – in hair care, the manufacturer describes it as an ingredient that refreshes the scalp. It is suitable for hair oils and scalp products.
• Aromatic effect – according to the manufacturer, the earthy, woody fragrance has a calming and “grounding” effect. In a product it can therefore also be used as the only fragrance component with a forest character.

Use in a formulation

The oil is lipophilic. It mixes with vegetable oils, butters and waxes, so it is added directly to anhydrous products and to the oil phase of emulsions. For toners, sprays and other water-based products, it must first be worked into a solubiliser, otherwise it separates and forms a film on the surface.

In creams and lotions it is added at the very end of production, once the emulsion has cooled. The recommended processing temperature is below 40 °C. At higher temperatures some of the volatile components evaporate and the fragrance of the finished product weakens or changes.

The usage rate depends on the type of product. The maximum amount for individual categories (body oils, face creams, shampoos and others) is set by IFRA standards, and the values for this oil are given in the product parameters. As with any essential oil, work with a low usage rate and always in dilution. The oil is strongly aromatic, so for the first test we recommend starting at the lower limit and judging the fragrance only after a day or two, once it has settled in the finished product.

Suitable for products such as

• Massage and body oils – the warming character and woody fragrance are most useful here, and the oil mixes easily into a carrier oil.
• Creams and body lotions – as both a fragrance and an active component, added to the cooled emulsion.
• Hair oils and scalp products – according to the manufacturer it refreshes the scalp, and in oil wraps and hair serums it is used at a low rate.
• Shampoos and shower gels – as a fragrance component of rinse-off products, in an amount according to the relevant IFRA category.

Good to know

The colour of the oil ranges from colourless to yellow. At a low usage rate it has only a small effect on the colour of the finished product, but for light and white creams we recommend a test batch.

The fragrance may develop differently in a finished emulsion than in the pure oil. The perception is influenced by the carrier oil, the emulsifier and the other fragrance components. Before larger production, let a test batch rest for several days and only then decide on the final usage rate.

The oil does not replace a preservative. Water-based and emulsion products need a separate preservative system, and we recommend checking its compatibility in the finished formulation.

Separate, stricter IFRA limits apply to products for children, lip products and eye products. Before adding the oil to such a formulation, check whether it is permitted at all for the given category and in what amount.

We recommend testing the tolerance of the finished product on a small area of skin, as this is an ingredient with the potential for sensitisation.

Frequently asked questions