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In recent years, products containing cosmetic clays and minerals have become a major hit in cosmetics. Natural cosmetic clays offer several benefits for the skin, but as with any other raw materials, certain rules apply to cosmetic clays when incorporating them into a product. Find out more about cosmetic clays in the following article.
Cosmetic clays are perfect for creating nourishing face masks. Get inspiredand create your own Powder face mask following our blog tutorial.
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The term cosmetic clays refers to a large group of natural minerals with varying composition and crystal structure. The most common element found in cosmetic clays is silicon, since for most clays it holds that they are silicate minerals with different levels of impurities. These impurities include magnesium, manganese, calcium and iron, which give cosmetic clays their characteristic colours and properties. A common feature is that cosmetic clays are often finely milled to enable easy incorporation into cosmetic formulations.
However, clays are not used only in cosmetics. They are an essential component in the manufacture of porcelain and ceramics, and are also used in construction and other industries. There are a great many different types of clays, so you will encounter numerous different names. Some cosmetic clays even have several names, because their trivial (for example, commercially used) names do not follow chemical nomenclature.
There are several reasons why cosmetic clays are so popular in cosmetics. They are primarily known for their high mineral content and therefore provide nourishment to the skin, which is why they are often found as part of masks and scrubs. At the same time, they help to degrease the skin; some types are able to bind impurities, making cosmetic clays indispensable in the care of oily and acne‑prone skin.
Thanks to their cleansing properties, many cosmetic clays remove not only impurities but also dead skin cells, and in finely milled form they can serve as an alternative to mechanical exfoliation for sensitive skin. Cosmetic clays also help to smooth the skin and even out its tone.
In addition to the fact that cosmetic clays adsorb oil well, some types are able to bind water molecules and thus increase their volume. They also bind odours and fragrances, which helps keep perfuming and fragrance components in the product for longer, because cosmetic clays slow down their release.
They are also frequently used for texture adjustment of products. Cosmetic clays make it possible to thicken different types of products, while also improving the skin feel of preparations during application.
Since cosmetic clays are minerals obtained by mining from nature, it is obvious that they may also contain impurities. Most commonly, these are other types of minerals or elements that occur alongside them in nature. For this reason, the content of these substances varies depending on the mining location as well as on the processing and purification method of the final clay. This is why it is advisable to buy clays labelled as cosmetic‑grade, because clays intended for industrial use are not subject to such strict purity and quality requirements.
A second issue faced by cosmetic clays is their microbial contamination. Because cosmetic clays consist of minerals that are essential for the growth of microorganisms, they represent an ideal environment for their proliferation when moisture conditions are suitable. This is why a decontamination process should be part of the manufacture of cosmetic clays, during which various methods are used to reduce the number of microorganisms present in cosmetic clays. Most commonly, this involves autoclaving (sterilisation with moist heat, i.e. hot pressurised steam), the use of ozone or gamma irradiation (however, cosmetic clays decontaminated by gamma irradiation often exclude the product from being labelled as natural).
Microbial contamination is also linked to the issue of preserving products that contain cosmetic clays, since clays provide a suitable medium for microbial growth. For this reason, even a perfectly decontaminated cosmetic clay, when exposed to microorganisms during production (it is impossible to achieve absolute sterility in a home environment), can cause product spoilage if preserved incorrectly.
It is primarily water that causes spoilage in products containing cosmetic clays, because water is essential for microbial growth. For this reason, it is recommended to store products containing cosmetic clays in dry form, i.e. as water‑free powders, and to add water only at the time of application. In this way, you can easily avoid preservation issues with preparations into which cosmetic clays are incorporated. Products that contain both water and cosmetic clays must be preserved with strong broad‑spectrum preservatives at the highest permitted concentration, but even that may not guarantee long‑term storage stability of such a product.
If you wish to benefit from clay masks or scrubs, prepare them in powder form and add water only upon application. Likewise, you can create a powder facial cleanser using solid powdered surfactants and cosmetic clays. Do not forget to keep the containers for these products well closed to prevent moisture uptake, and also be careful not to scoop the powder out with wet hands.
On the market, cosmetic clays are available in pure form, but you may also encounter blends containing various cosmetic clays, and there are two types of blends. In the first case, the blend consists only of different types of pure cosmetic clays. However, there are also cosmetic clay blends in which a colourant is added to the clay to achieve the desired shade. With such clays, whose colour was not obtained through their natural mineral content, there is a risk that you may easily exceed the maximum dosage of a colourant suitable for skin use (in particular if the manufacturer has not stated its concentration).
Therefore, always check whether the given clay has its INCI (composition) listed; colourants should often appear there under the abbreviation Cl followed by a number.
Cosmetic clays are usually divided into three major groups according to their properties.
Kaolinitic cosmetic clays include common silicate clays, which you will most often find in cosmetics. Their main component is aluminium silicate – the mineral kaolinite, which forms the rock kaolin, frequently used as a cosmetic clay. They come in various colour variations.
White kaolin
This type of kaolin is very widely used in cosmetics. It has a distinctive snow‑white colour, contains a high proportion of silicon dioxide and is able to bind impurities to the surface of its particles.
Like other cosmetic clays, it is not miscible with oils. It is mined worldwide, with important deposits found especially in France. It binds fragrances well and thus keeps them in the product; in addition, it has anti‑inflammatory properties.
Australian olive green clay
This pleasantly pale green cosmetic clay is a blend of quartz and kaolin. Mineral impurities give it its interesting colour. Green cosmetic clay is one of the most effective clays for oily and problem skin. It binds oil and impurities very well and can therefore be drying for dry skin. Its high silicon content helps to regenerate the skin, which is why you will also find it in anti‑cellulite products.
This type of clay takes its name from the US state of Illinois, where it was discovered. Illite cosmetic clays belong to the group of minerals that, among other places, are found in large quantities in the shells of marine organisms and their sediments. Just like kaolinitic cosmetic clays, they occur in different colours depending on their mineral content.
Yellow illite
Yellow illite is among the striking and visually unmistakable cosmetic clays. Thanks to its mineral content, it stands out for its colour. Like other cosmetic clays, it is also suitable for the care of problem skin, and it contains anti‑inflammatory substances and tightens pores. It has strong detoxifying properties and is one of the milder types of clays suitable also for dry and sensitive skin.
Red illite
Due to its high content of iron oxides, this type of illite has a pronounced red colour. Red illite is used for the care of sensitive skin; it helps tighten pores, evens out the skin tone and reduces redness. Red illite originates from northern France. It is suitable for mature skin because it improves the appearance of wrinkles.
Pink illite
This is again a cosmetic clay suitable for delicate skin, originating from regions of France. It is based on a blend of illite and white kaolin. Pink illite has a fine velvety texture and helps care for all skin types, but is especially suitable for delicate and sensitive skin. It helps to detoxify the skin and, when used in massage, improves circulation in the skin.
Like many other cosmetic clays, montmorillonitic clays are named after the place where they were discovered – Montmorillonite in France. These are clay minerals that bind water well and swell significantly. They occur in several variations.
Bentonite
Bentonite has an irreplaceable role among clays, especially because many other montmorillonitic cosmetic clays are obtained by levigating it. In addition, bentonite contains volcanic ash and has a characteristic grey colour.
Once added to water, bentonite swells intensely and increases its volume. It helps detoxify and cleanse the skin. Bentonite can be used for all skin types, but it is particularly suitable for problem and acne‑prone skin.
Australian montmorillonite
This fine grey‑brown cosmetic clay is a blend of montmorillonite with many minerals, such as zinc, magnesium and calcium, which play an important role in skin nutrition and care. During massage, it helps stimulate blood and lymph circulation and is therefore used in the fight against cellulite. It is suitable for all skin types.
Moroccan rhassoul clay
The very well‑known Moroccan cosmetic clay, easily recognisable by its soft red colour, is mined in the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. It has a high mineral content and exerts an anti‑inflammatory effect on the skin. It is an extremely good adsorbent and an excellent detoxifying agent. It is often found in luxury cosmetic products. Thanks to its high silicon content, it helps to reduce the signs of skin ageing.
