Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, solubiliser, 100 ml

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a PEG-free solubiliser of plant origin that allows fragrance oils and essential oils to be incorporated into water-based products: toners, micellar waters, shampoos and shower gels. In a formulation it can also act as a co-emulsifier to reduce the viscosity of emulsions and as a co-surfactant that softens the skin feel of cleansing products.

We supply the version with 70% active ingredient in a blend with water and citric acid. It has a lower viscosity, so it is easier to measure out and mix without heating. The active ingredient is a non-ionic monoester of ten glycerine units and lauric acid from coconut. The glycerine comes from plant sources, the raw material is COSMOS Approved certified and it is also suitable for vegan cosmetics.

Key benefits

• PEG-free – an alternative to ethoxylated solubilisers for natural and certified formulations, readily biodegradable (OECD 301).
• Solubilisation of fragrance oils and essential oils – at an oil : solubiliser ratio of 1 : 4 to 1 : 6 it forms a milky to translucent solution, and clear with the addition of approximately 15% ethanol.
• Reduced emulsion viscosity – as a co-emulsifier at 1.5–3% it allows thin O/W emulsions to be prepared, according to the manufacturer without affecting their stability.
• Gentler cleansing base – as a co-surfactant it leaves a non-sticky, non-greasy feel and, according to the manufacturer, can reduce the irritation potential of harsher surfactants in the blend.
• Wide compatibility – its non-ionic character allows combination with anionic, amphoteric, cationic and non-ionic surfactants at acidic, neutral and alkaline pH.
• No fragrance allergens and no CLP classification – the raw material is not classified as hazardous and does not contain the allergens listed in Annex III of the Cosmetics Regulation.

Use as a solubiliser

The amount of solubiliser depends on the nature of the oil. Polar oils are solubilised more easily and need a lower usage rate, while less polar oils need more solubiliser. There is therefore no single universal ratio.

At a ratio of 1 : 4 to 1 : 6 (oil : solubiliser) a milky to translucent solution forms. This is sufficient where a clear appearance is not required, for example in shower gels or milks. A clear solution is achieved at a ratio of 1 : 4 to 1 : 10 with the addition of approximately 15% ethanol, and the exact ratio depends on both the concentration and the type of oil.

The order of the steps matters:

• First, mix the oil thoroughly with the solubiliser until a uniform concentrate forms.
• Then add the water phase while stirring.
• Ethanol, if needed, is added last.

Co-emulsifier and co-surfactant

As a co-emulsifier it is added to the water phase before homogenisation at 1.5–3%. The manufacturer states that it reduces viscosity in an O/W emulsion, so that fluid milks can be prepared without changing the stability of the emulsion. An HLB of approximately 16 corresponds to a markedly hydrophilic substance. In a formulation it complements the main emulsifier and does not replace it.

As a co-surfactant it is used at 1–30% depending on the type of product. It is blended with the other surfactants and added to the water phase together with them. In shampoos and shower gels it contributes to a more pleasant skin feel and, according to the manufacturer, reduces the irritation potential of harsher surfactants. We recommend checking its suitability for a specific surfactant blend in the finished formulation.

Suitable for products such as

• Facial toners – fragranced with essential oils, clear with ethanol or slightly cloudy without it.
• Micellar waters – a solubiliser and a cleansing co-surfactant in one.
• Shampoos, shower gels and bath products – a co-surfactant to soften the base and at the same time a carrier of fragrance.
• Body milks – a co-emulsifier to reduce the viscosity of O/W emulsions.

The raw material is intended for both rinse-off and leave-on products and, according to the manufacturer, is suitable for sensitive and baby skin.

What to know when formulating

It belongs in the water phase and is soluble in water. It is processed at temperatures up to 80 °C, but thanks to the lower viscosity of the version we supply you can usually do without heating.

The raw material is yellow. At higher proportions in clear water-based products, we recommend checking the effect on colour.

Difference between a solubiliser and an emulsifier

A solubiliser incorporates a small amount of oil into water so that very small droplets form and the result is translucent to clear and fluid. An emulsifier combines a larger amount of oil phase with water into a cream or milk, which is white and opaque. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate fulfils the first role and is added to an emulsifier only as a supplement to adjust viscosity.

Frequently asked questions