Shea Butter, Refined, 1 kg

Refined shea butter is a vegetable fat from the seeds of the karité tree that serves as an emollient in formulations. It softens the skin, creates a barrier against moisture loss, and gives creams, butters, and balms a fuller body. Refining has removed the typical nutty scent and yellowish tint of unrefined butter, making it suitable where the finished product should remain light-coloured and fragrance-free. The raw material has cosmetic and food-grade quality and comes from fruits collected in the wild in West Africa.

What it brings to the formulation

• Emollient with a high proportion of stearic and oleic acid – together they make up the majority of the fatty acids. Stearic acid gives the butter firmness and the ability to thicken the oil phase; oleic acid provides spreadability and skin-softening.
• Unsaponifiable fraction 5 – 10 % – this fraction does not participate in saponification and is traditionally associated with a soothing and conditioning effect on the skin.
• Melts at 30 – 42 °C – at room temperature the butter is solid; on the skin it melts and absorbs. It can therefore be processed on its own or as the base for anhydrous balms.
• Neutral scent and light colour – it will not overpower the fragrance composition or affect the shade of the emulsion.
• According to the manufacturer's studies it supports skin elasticity, helps reduce dryness and brittleness of hair, and contains antioxidant substances. In the finished product, these effects depend on the dosage and the rest of the formulation.

Use in formulation

The butter belongs in the oil phase. It melts together with the other fats and waxes; the recommended processing temperature is up to 80 °C. In emulsions, the oil phase containing the butter is heated to the same temperature as the water phase and then emulsified. In cold-process procedures it can also be added directly, provided it is first worked to a smooth consistency or briefly warmed to liquid.

The manufacturer states a dosage range of 1 – 100 %. In light emulsions and lotions it forms only a small part of the oil phase; in creams and body butters a more significant share; in anhydrous balms and whipped butters it is typically the base of the formulation and can also be used on its own. The higher the proportion, the richer and more greasy the resulting texture.

In hair masks and conditioners, the butter is added to the oil phase of the emulsion or to anhydrous leave-in products for the ends. A low dosage is sufficient for hair; a higher proportion will weigh the hair down.

Suitable for products such as

• Body butters and whipped butters – the butter forms the base and is combined with liquid oils for better spreadability.
• O/W and W/O creams – as an emollient and also a mild thickener of the oil phase.
• Lip balms – the food-grade quality and neutral flavour are advantageous here; together with wax it holds the shape of the stick.
• Hand and foot creams – for dry and cracked skin where a protective film is desirable.
• Hair masks and leave-in products – for dry and damaged hair at low dosage.
• Cold-process soap – the saponification value 168 – 190 mg KOH/g is used to calculate the lye for the fat blend.

Good to know

The butter is insoluble in water and miscible with oils, waxes, and esters. It can only be incorporated into a water-containing product through an emulsifier. The butter itself and anhydrous balms made from it do not require a preservative, as they contain no water. For better oxidative stability of the oil phase, adding an antioxidant such as Tocopherol has proven effective.

At higher dosages it leaves a richer feel on the skin and takes longer to absorb. A lighter texture can be achieved by combining it with fast-absorbing oils or esters.

Frequently asked questions