How to read a label and not be misled by pretty words

Back 09. 06. 2026
How to read a cosmetic label — composition and INCI on the product packaging

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But a label is not just a nice design. It is a combination of mandatory information, composition, marketing claims, symbols, icons, certifications and the impression the product is meant to create. And this is exactly where it pays to switch on your common sense.

Not everything expensive is automatically good. Not everything cheap is automatically bad. Not every “star” active ingredient is present in the product in a high amount. And not every green pack means you are holding an ecological or natural cosmetic in your hand.

The good news is that you can learn to read a label. You do not have to know every component by heart. It is enough to know where to find important information, what to pay attention to and at which words to become a little more alert.

The front sells, the back explains

The front of the pack is designed to catch your eye. Its role is to tell you in a few seconds why the product should interest you. That is why you will often find statements such as:

These statements are not necessarily bad. The problem arises when they sound stronger than what is actually supported by the product composition.

The back of the label is less sexy, but often far more useful. There you will find the Ingredients, warnings, shelf life, manufacturer or responsible person, batch number and other details that help you understand the product more realistically than the slogan on the front.

Did you know?

Did you know? The statement “dermatologically tested” is a marketing claim that must be substantiated. However, it does not automatically mean that the product is suitable for everyone.

Every cosmetic product placed on the EU market must be safe under normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions of use and must have a professional safety assessment. This, however, is not the same as the “dermatologically tested” claim.

If a brand uses this claim, it should be able to support it with relevant testing or documentation. At the same time, a dermatologically tested product may still not suit some individuals, especially in cases of sensitive skin, allergies or intolerance to specific ingredients.

A label is not just the composition

When you say “read the label”, many people imagine only the list of ingredients. That is very important, but it is not the only piece of information worth tracking. On a cosmetic label, pay particular attention to:

What the product is and what it is for.
Who is the manufacturer or responsible person.
What the nominal content is.
What the minimum durability date or PAO symbol is.
What the warnings for use are.
What the batch number is.
What the composition is in the form of Ingredients.
Whether fragrance allergens are listed, where relevant.
Whether the product uses certifications, icons or marketing claims.

If any of these details are missing or appear unclear, it does not automatically mean a problem, but it is good to be cautious.

INCI does not tell you everything, but it tells you a lot

The list of ingredients is indicated on cosmetics as Ingredients: followed by a list of ingredients according to the INCI system or the common ingredient nomenclature used for the labelling of cosmetic products.

INCI does not show the exact percentage of all ingredients. It shows their order according to their proportion in the product at the time of addition to the formulation.

The first ingredients usually make up the largest part of the product. Ingredients below 1 % may be listed in any order after the ingredients above 1 %. This means that INCI is a good orientational map, but not a precise percentage calculator.

In practice:

Reading the INCI ingredient list on a cosmetic label

You do not know exactly how much active ingredient is in the product

This is one of the most important points when reading cosmetics.

If the packaging states “with hyaluronic acid”, “with niacinamide”, “with aloe vera” or “with argan oil”, this does not automatically mean that there is a high amount of this ingredient. It means that the ingredient is present in the product and the manufacturer considers it important for the communication of the product.

Without the percentage being stated, however, you do not know exactly how much is actually in the product. A star ingredient may represent a significant part of the formulation, but it may also be used in a smaller amount as a supporting, sensorial or marketing‑attractive ingredient.

At the same time, you should not read INCI too simplistically. Not every active ingredient has to be present in a product at a high level to make sense. Some substances are used specifically at low concentrations because they work best that way, are recommended at those levels by the raw material supplier or have a pronounced effect even at low dosage.

A good example is hyaluronic acid. In cosmetics it is often used at relatively low concentrations, and yet it can significantly influence hydration, the skin feel and the viscosity of the product.

Simple rule: an ingredient at the end of the INCI list is not automatically useless, but a claim on the front of the pack also does not automatically mean a high concentration.
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How to read claims on the front of the pack

Treat claims on the front of the pack as an invitation, not as complete proof of efficacy.

If a product highlights, for example, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, vitamin E, peptides, ceramides or botanical extracts, also look at the broader context:

You do not have to approach every claim suspiciously. It is, however, good not to consider it the entire story of the product.

The front of the pack tells you what the brand wants to emphasise. The composition, directions for use and overall brand communication help you understand whether this makes sense.

Beware of overly simple conclusions

If an ingredient is listed near the end of the Ingredients list, it often means that it is present in a lower amount. However, this does not automatically mean that it is meaningless.

Many active, preservative, antioxidant, fragrance or technologically important ingredients are used at low concentrations. Some can influence stability, odour, texture, pH, viscosity or the overall feel of the product even at low dosage.

INCI is an excellent tool for orientation, but it is not a complete formulator’s protocol. That is why it is good to read the label critically, but not in an oversimplified way.

Active ingredients are not automatically a guarantee of a better product

Active ingredients are important, but they do not make a good product on their own. It depends on their concentration, form, stability, pH, compatibility with other ingredients, packaging type and the overall formulation.

In cosmetics it is not enough to simply “add an active ingredient”. It is also crucial whether it is used in a meaningful amount, whether it remains stable during use and whether the formulation can deliver it to where it is meant to act. Skin is not an open gate and an active ingredient does not reach its target site just because it is written on the label.

This is why the whole system of the formula matters: an appropriate aqueous or oil phase, the correct pH, an emulsifier, solvents, humectants, stabilisers, preservation, texture and the packaging type. All these factors can determine whether an active ingredient in a product really works or is just a nice word in marketing communication.

A good product is not just a list of trendy ingredients. A good product is a well thought‑out formula in which the ingredients make sense together.

A product with one well‑chosen active ingredient in the right form and a well‑designed formulation can be better than a product with a long list of modern ingredients on the label, but each only in symbolic or poorly incorporated amounts. You can also look at our range of active ingredients and their descriptions.

Use common sense: price, active ingredients and formulation reality

With cosmetics, it pays to use your common sense.

A high price on its own does not mean that a product is automatically higher quality, more effective or better formulated. Sometimes you are paying for development, quality raw materials, testing and good packaging. At other times a large part of the price is made up by the brand, marketing, distribution, advertising or a sense of luxury created by the packaging.

The opposite extreme also applies. If a very cheap product promises a long list of actives, exotic extracts, vitamins, peptides, acids and oils all at once, it is wise to read the label realistically. This does not automatically mean that the product is bad, but it is possible that several of these ingredients are present only in low or trace amounts.

A good product does not have to be the most expensive one. And a cheap product is not automatically bad. What matters is whether the formulation makes sense, whether the brand communicates proportionately and whether the claims on the pack correspond to what can be read from the composition.

In practice, ask yourself these questions:

Good cosmetics do not have to shout. It is often enough if they have a well‑designed base, a reasonable amount of effective ingredients, a stable formulation and fair communication without big promises that the composition cannot deliver.

Marketing words that should be read with care

Some words on cosmetics sound attractive. The problem is that without context they often do not say enough.

Some are regulated, some have to be substantiated, some are more of a marketing shortcut. Therefore, it is worth asking: What exactly does the brand mean by this? Can it be verified? Does it relate to the composition or only to the impression created by the packaging?

Word What it may suggest What to watch out for What to verify
Natural / natural The product may contain natural or naturally derived ingredients. It does not automatically mean a certified, gentler, safer or more effective product. A natural ingredient can be functional but also irritating. A synthetic ingredient can be very well studied and stable. Is there a certification, methodology or explanation of what the brand considers natural?
Bio / organic The product or part of it may be based on organic ingredients. The word BIO on its own is not enough. Certified organic cosmetics should clearly state the standard or certification body. Is something like COSMOS Organic, Ecocert or another relevant certification stated?
Clean beauty The brand wants to communicate a simpler, “cleaner” or more selective composition. This is a marketing term without a unified legal definition. Each brand can interpret it a bit differently. Does the brand explain what it includes in and excludes from this philosophy?
Chemical‑free The brand is trying to communicate a more natural or gentler product. From a scientific perspective this is meaningless. Everything around us, including water, plant oils and skin, is made of chemical substances. Is the brand replacing expert explanation with fear‑mongering?
Free from parabens The product does not use parabens as preservatives. This does not automatically say anything about the quality of the entire formulation. The product must be preserved appropriately, safely and stably regardless of whether it contains parabens or another preservation system. Is the product water‑based? If so, how is preservation handled?
Dermatologically tested The product was tested under dermatological supervision or was the subject of a tolerance test. It does not mean the product will be suitable for everyone or that it cannot cause an individual reaction. Is the brand using this claim as a substitute for clear composition and warnings?
Hypoallergenic The product is formulated to reduce the risk of allergic reaction. It does not mean zero allergy risk. Everyone can react individually. Does it contain fragrance, essential oils or known allergens?
For sensitive skin The product may be designed to be gentler, with sensitive skin in mind. Sensitive skin is not one universal category. Some people react to fragrance, others to acids, preservatives, plant extracts or a high content of active ingredients. Is the product fragrance‑free? Does it have a simpler composition? Does it contain potentially irritating ingredients?
Eco / green / sustainable The brand wants to communicate a more environmentally friendly approach. Green packaging colour, a leaf in the logo or the word eco are not enough. Sustainability may relate to the composition, packaging, production, logistics, recyclability or certification. Exactly what is sustainable? The packaging? Raw materials? Production? Certification?
Recyclable packaging The packaging material is technically recyclable. Technical recyclability does not mean the pack will actually be recycled in every collection system. The material, material combinations, label, pump, closure and local sorting options all matter. Is the packaging monomaterial? Can the pump or label be separated? Does the brand state the packaging material?
Professional / clinical The product wants to appear technical or high‑performance. The word clinical or professional on its own says nothing about the concentration of active ingredients or the quality of the formulation. Are specific actives, percentages, pH, tests or at least a clear explanation of the effect given?
With active ingredients The product contains functional ingredients. This claim on its own says nothing about the amount, stability, form or efficacy of the active ingredients. Which active ingredients? In what form? Does their use make sense in this formula?
Toxin‑free / free from toxins The brand is trying to create a feeling of safety. It is often a fear‑based claim. Cosmetics on the EU market must be safe for normal use. The word toxin is often used imprecisely in marketing. Does the brand explain specific substances, or only create the impression that other cosmetics are dangerous?
Vegan The product does not contain ingredients of animal origin. Vegan does not automatically mean natural, ecological, hypoallergenic or milder. Is this the brand’s own claim or a certification? How does the brand define vegan composition?
Cruelty‑free The brand communicates that it does not test on animals. In the EU there are strict rules for testing cosmetics on animals, but certifications such as Leaping Bunny have their own rules and control mechanisms. Is it a certified label or the brand’s own claim?

Greenwashing and cleanwashing

Greenwashing is a situation in which a product appears more ecological, natural or sustainable than it actually is.
Cleanwashing is a similar phenomenon but connected to the language of purity, safety and “toxins”. The product presents itself as “clean” and other products as automatically suspicious or harmful.

Examples:

Cosmetic label with marketing claims such as natural and chemical‑free

For fair cosmetics, the gap between marketing and reality should be as small as possible.

Certifications: when a logo really means something

On the pack you may find various marks and symbols. Some are just graphic elements used by the manufacturer, others represent independent certifications.

Among well‑known certification systems in cosmetics are, for example, COSMOS, Ecocert, the EU Ecolabel or Leaping Bunny.

COSMOS uses designations such as COSMOS Organic and COSMOS Natural for certified cosmetic products.
Ecocert is one of the well‑known certification bodies in the field of natural and organic cosmetics.
EU Ecolabel is an environmental label of the European Union for products that meet defined environmental criteria.
Leaping Bunny is a programme focused on the cruelty‑free standard and verifying brands’ commitments in the area of no animal testing.

Independent certification

The brand or product has been inspected according to the rules of a specific organisation.

Brand’s own icon

It may be true, but it is not automatically an independent verification.

Graphic symbol without explanation

It may look trustworthy but may have no real certification value.

Symbols and certification labels on a cosmetic product label

If a brand uses its own icons such as “vegan”, “natural”, “eco”, “clean” or “planet friendly”, it should be able to explain what they mean exactly and on what basis they are used.

BIO cosmetics: it is not enough that the pack looks natural

BIO or organic cosmetics should not be just a matter of a green pack, a plant illustration or a pretty name.

If a product carries a certified designation such as COSMOS Organic, it must meet the rules of the relevant certification system and have passed inspection.

For the consumer, a simple practical rule applies:

Perfume and allergens: they do not automatically mean a problem, but you need to know how to read them

Fragrance may be listed in the ingredients as Parfum or Aroma.

The manufacturer can decide whether to list the fragrance composition in a general way or in more detail. However, mandatory allergens must be listed separately where they exceed legally defined limits.

Allergens do not automatically mean that the product is bad. They mean that it contains substances that may be important for people with sensitivities or allergies.

It is also important that allergens may come from natural ingredients. An essential oil can be natural and still contain allergens. Natural origin does not automatically mean zero risk of irritation.

Examples of fragrance allergens you may find in the list of ingredients:

Linalool Limonene Citral Geraniol Citronellol Coumarin Eugenol
Fragrance components and allergens on a cosmetic label

Colourants and CI numbers

Colourants are not listed in the ingredients as “pink colourant”, “blue colour” or “red pigment”. Nor do they use standard INCI‑style names as for botanical or functional ingredients.

Cosmetic colourants are designated using a CI number, that is, a Colour Index number. The CI number is the standardised way of naming the colourant in the Ingredients list.

Colourant Designation in Ingredients
Mica CI 77019
Titanium Dioxide / Titanium dioxide CI 77891
Red Iron Oxide / Red iron oxide CI 77491
Yellow Iron Oxide / Yellow iron oxide CI 77492
Black Iron Oxide / Black iron oxide CI 77499
Ultramarine Blue / Ultramarine blue CI 77007
Chromium Oxide Green / Chromium oxide green CI 77288
Manganese Violet / Manganese violet CI 77742

With mica shades, it is often not only CI 77019 that is listed, because a particular shade may also contain additional pigments, such as CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492 or CI 77499. You must therefore always refer to the technical documentation for the specific colourant.

For decorative cosmetics that come in several shades, may contain or +/- labelling can also be used, where this corresponds to the specific product and its composition.

PAO symbol and shelf‑life date

It is also worth tracking shelf life information on the label.

The minimum durability date is used for products with a minimum durability of 30 months or less.

For products with a longer durability, the PAO symbol is usually used, that is, an open jar symbol with an indication of how long the product can be used after opening. You may see for example:

6M
6 months after opening
12M
12 months after opening
24M
24 months after opening

This means 6, 12 or 24 months after opening.

Note: PAO is not an invitation to use the product indefinitely. If the smell, colour or texture changes, or if the product becomes contaminated, do not use it, even if the PAO period has not formally expired.

Nominal content: what 50 ml or 100 g mean

The nominal content tells you how much product is in the pack at the time of filling. It is most often given in millilitres or grams. Examples:

30 ml 50 ml 100 g 250 ml

For the consumer it is important to know that the nominal content is not the “size of the pack” nor the impression given by how full the bottle looks.

Some packs may look larger than the actual content of product. It is therefore worth looking at the number, not just the shape or size of the packaging.

Why it is good to choose well‑known and verified brands

With cosmetics, it is sensible to choose brands that can be tracked down, communicate clearly and have a degree of trust behind them.

These do not have to be only large international brands. A well‑known and verified brand can also be a local manufacturer with transparent composition, clear contact details, good communication and a responsible approach to manufacturing.

A verified brand should be able to answer basic questions:

Why local cosmetics can be a very good choice

Local brands often have a closer relationship with customers and can communicate more concretely.

They may not carry the same corporate overheads as large global brands, such as massive advertising campaigns, multi‑level distribution networks, internationally scaled packaging or huge marketing budgets.

This can mean that a smaller brand can put an interesting amount of quality ingredients or more functional active ingredients into a single product without having to hide a large part of the price in a corporate apparatus.

Of course, this does not automatically apply to every local brand. Here too, you need to read the label, watch the composition and see how the brand communicates.

Buying local also has a broader meaning. It supports the domestic market, the business environment, craftsmanship, smaller brands and the people who often stand personally behind the product.

With a good local brand, you are not just buying a cream, serum or soap. You are also supporting a more transparent relationship between manufacturer and customer.

Local cosmetics and manufacturing

How to spot a fair brand

A fair brand does not have to shout the loudest. It tends to communicate clearly, professionally and without unnecessary scaremongering.

A fair brand:

How to read a label in 30 seconds

When shopping you do not have to perform a laboratory analysis. A quick orientation is enough.

  1. Look at what the product is and what it is for. Is it a serum, cream, shampoo, peel or oil?
  2. Check the first 5 ingredients in the INCI. They usually tell you the most about the base of the product.
  3. Find the star ingredient from the front of the pack. Is it at the beginning, in the middle or at the end? Treat that as orientation, not definitive proof of efficacy.
  4. Look for Parfum or Aroma. With sensitive skin it is useful to know whether the product is fragranced.
  5. Watch out for allergens. Especially if you know you react to certain fragrance components.
  6. Check the PAO or shelf‑life date. A 12M symbol means the product should be used within 12 months of opening.
  7. Look at the warnings. These are important especially for exfoliating, fragranced or highly active products.
  8. Verify who is responsible for the product. A transparent brand does not hide.

What to remember

A label is not an enemy. It is the product’s map. It may not tell you absolutely everything, but it can reveal a lot.

You will not read the exact percentages of all active ingredients from the INCI, but you will see which ingredients form the base of the product. You will not learn the whole truth from claims, but you can compare them with the composition. From certifications you can infer whether there is an independently verified standard behind them or just a pretty icon. From the manufacturer’s contact details you can see whether a traceable brand stands behind the product.

The goal is not to be afraid of every ingredient. The goal is not to fall for every nice word.

Good cosmetics do not need to have the loudest marketing. It is often enough if they have a sensible composition, clear use, proportionate claims and a label that does not mislead the customer.

Frequently asked questions: how to read a cosmetic label

The most common practical questions about reading cosmetic labels — from INCI through perfume and allergens to PAO and marketing claims.

What is the most important thing to track on a cosmetic label?

The most important things are to know what the product is, who is responsible for it, what its composition is, how it is used, what its shelf life is and whether it contains perfume or allergens that may be relevant to you.


Can you find out the exact percentage of active ingredients from the INCI list?

No. INCI shows the order of ingredients according to their proportion but does not give the exact percentages of all substances. For ingredients below 1 %, the order can be more flexible, so INCI should be read as an orientational tool, not as a precise recipe.


Does an ingredient at the end of the INCI list mean it is pointless?

Not always. An ingredient at the end of the list is often present at a low concentration, but this does not automatically mean it is without significance. Some active, preservative, antioxidant or technological ingredients work precisely at low levels.


Is natural cosmetics automatically better?

Not automatically. Natural origin can be an advantage, but on its own it does not say everything about efficacy, stability, safety or suitability for a specific skin type. The entire formulation matters.


What does Parfum mean in the composition?

Parfum designates a fragrance composition. Depending on the composition, this may be a synthetic, natural or mixed fragrance. If it contains regulated fragrance allergens above set limits, these must be listed separately in the ingredients.


Are allergens in cosmetics a problem?

Not automatically. Allergens are important information mainly for people who have sensitivities or known allergies. They can also come from natural essential oils or plant extracts.


What does the PAO symbol 12M mean?

The PAO symbol 12M means that the product is recommended to be used within 12 months after opening. However, if the smell, colour or texture changes or the product becomes contaminated, do not use it even before that time has elapsed.


How can I recognise greenwashing in cosmetics?

Be alert to vague words like eco, natural, clean, toxin‑free or sustainable if the brand does not explain exactly what it means by them. Fair claims should be specific, verifiable and proportionate.


Is it better to buy cosmetics from local brands?

Local cosmetics can be an excellent choice if the brand is transparent, responsible and can explain its composition. Buying local also supports the domestic market and smaller businesses. It is still essential, however, to read the label and pay attention to the specific composition.


What is the simplest way to quickly read a label?

Look at the product type, the first few ingredients in the INCI list, the fragrance, allergens, shelf life, warnings and responsible person. Then compare the main marketing claims with what you actually see in the composition.

Create cosmetics you understand

When you know how to read a label, you also know what makes sense to include in your own formulation. Take a look at our active ingredients and their descriptions — with exact composition, dosage and an explanation of what they are for.

See the active ingredients