Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is popular. Do you know everything about it?
Hyaluronic acid is now a very popular raw material that can be found in many types of cosmetic products. It is a carbohydrate that also occurs naturally in our body. It can be found mainly in the skin, but also in cartilage, joints and eyes.
In cosmetics, hyaluronic acid is used as a humectant or gel-forming agent. It is able to bind moisture from its surroundings, up to a thousand times its weight. As a result, hyaluronic acid helps to trap and retain water in the skin and reduce transepidermal water loss.
HYALURONIC ACID IN OUR BODY
Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the human body, but as we age, the production of hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases. This can lead to dehydration of the skin, worsening of wrinkles, change in skin texture and so on. However, the application of hyaluronic acid in cosmetic products helps to increase skin hydration and reduce the feeling of dry skin.
HYALURONIC ACID AND ITS ORIGIN
If you're wondering where hyaluronic acid comes from, the answer is microbial fermentation. It has long been no longer true that hyaluronic acid is produced from animal tissues. Thanks to microbial fermentation, it can be obtained in high quality and purity, and it is also available in different ranges of molecular weights.
HYALURONIC ACID AND ITS BENEFITS FOR THE SKIN
Why choose hyaluronic acid for the manufacture of skin products? Here are some of the benefits hyaluronic acid can have for your skin!
- Serums with hyaluronic acid stimulate the regeneration of skin cells, their metabolism and the treatment of skin injuries.
- Hyaluronic acid improves the appearance and texture of the skin, it can give it volume and softness.
- Help prevent dry areas on the skin and skin tightness due to poor skin hydration.
- Bringing hydration to deeper parts of the skin in the case of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
- Improving the appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin.
- Helping to improve the skin's natural protective barriers against environmental pollution or UV rays.
- An alternative to oil products for oily and acne-prone skin.
- When combined with vitamins such as vitamin C and E, helps reduce redness and signs of skin irritation.
HYALURONIC ACID - WHICH ONE TO CHOOSE?
There are several variations of hyaluronic acid available on the market, the most common being the four basic types namely high (HMW), medium (MMW), low (LMW) and ultra low molecular weight (ULMW) hyaluronic acid.
In general, the properties of hyaluronic acid are based on its size, i.e. the weight of its molecules.
As the weight of the molecules decreases, the ability of hyaluronic acid to form highly viscous gels decreases. Therefore, if you prefer gel-like serums where no other gel-forming agent is used besides hyaluronic acid, be sure to reach for HMW hyaluronic acid.
However, the smaller the hyaluronic acid molecule, the deeper it penetrates into the skin, so ULMW hyaluronic acidhyaluronic acid penetrates the deepest of all types and helps hydrate the skin not only on the surface.
However, you don't have to limit yourself to just one type of hyaluronic acid in your product. If you want to combine the gel-forming properties of HMW with the deep hydration of ULMW or LMW hyaluronic acid, combine both types of hyaluronic acid in one product.
- High molecular weight hyaluronic acid HMW - molecular weight 1.5-2 MDa, moisturizes the skin, forms viscous gels, provides a protective moisturizing barrier on the skin surface.
- Medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid MMW - molecular weight 1-1.5 MDa, provides longer lasting hydrationlonger lasting hydration, occurs in the connective tissue of the skin, still forms relatively viscous gels but penetrates deeper into the skin than HMW.
- Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid LMW - molecular weight 10-250 kDa, also found in cosmetic products under the labelm sodium hyaluronate, provides long-lasting hydration, has good stability, is also found in the connective tissue of the skin, its smoothing effect on wrinkles and skin lasts longer than HMW and MMW.
- Ultra low molecular weight hyaluronic acid ULMW - molecular weight ˂10 kDa, also penetrates into the deep layers of the skin, hydrates and regenerates the skin.
PRODUCTION OF COSMETICS WITH HYALURONIC ACID
Before you start making your own hyaluronic acid serum or cream, here's an overview of the basic properties of hyaluronic acid. In addition, you will learn more about the stability or tricks
and tips when working with hyaluronic acid.
HYALURONIC ACID AND SOLUBILITY
Hyaluronic acid is water soluble, so it can be used in all products containing an aqueous component. Since it forms a gel in water, its complete dissolution is not the fastest. This is why it is ideal to mix hyaluronic acid with glycerine beforehand and then add water or a hydrolate. This way, the acid hydrates faster and the lumps of unhydrated acid disappear from the product sooner.
Since hyaluronic acid forms a gel, it can be used alone to thicken serums. However, if you want to use a smaller amount of hyaluronic acid or a lower molecular weight type of hyaluronic acid, you will need to add another thickener to achieve the desired viscosity in the serum. For example, try guar gum; xanthan gum can also be used, but it may have a slightly sticky, soapy feel on the skin when the product is applied with it.
HYALURONIC ACID AND STABILITY
Hyaluronic acid is a relatively stable substance. It can tolerate a short heating period of 20-30 minutes on a water bath for the preparation of emulsions, i.e. creams. It may decompose on prolonged heating. When storing the dry powder form of hyaluronic acid, keep away from sources of moisture, heat and direct sunlight.
Hyaluronic acid provides solutions with a pH of 6.5-7. However, hyaluronic acid can also be used in products where the pH is lower. Always use a preservative in hyaluronic acid products as such a product will inevitably contain water.
HYALURONIC ACID - APPEARANCE, SMELL, PROPERTIES
Hyaluronic acid is sold in dry form, in the form of a white fine powder. Hyaluronic acid solutions are without a pronounced odour or smell. Its gels spread very well on the skin, are quickly absorbed and leave the skin moisturised and hydrated without a sticky feeling after application.
HYALURONIC ACID - PACKAGING
As hyaluronic acid thickens products, not all packaging is suitable for products containing it. For serums, it is worth reaching for glass bottles with a dropper or pump. Glass is also easy to clean and disinfect (always remember to disinfect the packaging before filling with product, for example with ethanol).
For creams, you can reach for the cups, but this will give your product a shorter shelf life because
with each use you introduce micro-organisms into the rest of the product by scooping it out with your fingers. Alternatively, again, pump bottles or tubes can be an alternative.
An option to reduce product contamination, oxidation and extend shelf life is to use airless bottles. These are pump bottles that dispense your cream or serum by creating a vacuum in the bottle. Product
in the container does not come into contact with the air or your skin.
HYALURONIC ACID - CONCLUSION
Do you use hyaluronic acid? If not, you should start. We can't stress enough how important it is for our skin.
If you have experience with it and also have some tips and tricks that we could enrich our posts with, feel free to email us at marketing@handymade.sk. We'll be happy to reply to any messages.
Until further notice, on our next post.
