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Making creams at home doesn’t have to be complicated. If you are a bit afraid of emulsions or have never made them before, this recipe is ideal for getting started. Thanks to the simple procedure, you will avoid the most common beginner’s mistake — an unstable emulsion or the so‑called cream “curdling”.
The recipe was prepared for us by our customer and enthusiastic formulator Ružena Mrvová, who combined raspberry hydrosol, raspberry seed oil and two popular active ingredients of modern cosmetics — Centella Asiatica and hyaluronic acid.
The result is a light moisturizing cream especially suitable for daytime use during the warmer months. It leaves the skin soft, hydrated and pleasantly nourished without a greasy feeling.
The formula is based on raw materials that work well together and complement each other. The result is therefore balanced and pleasant on the skin.
The formula is divided into three phases according to the manufacturing steps. Phase A is the common oil‑water base, phase B brings the active ingredients and phase C finishes the cream. The exact order of addition is the key to a stable emulsion.
Centella Asiatica is also referred to as the “queen of Korean cosmetics”. It supports skin regeneration, helps to soothe redness and strengthens the skin barrier. In this cream, the fermented aqueous extract is responsible for the soothing and regenerating character.
Typical use: facial creams, serums, essences, masks, products for sensitive skin.
Thoroughly disinfect all containers, tools and packaging. Work with an accurate scale and clean equipment.
Weigh all ingredients of phase A into one container.
Heat the mixture in a water bath until all raw materials are dissolved and form a homogeneous mixture.
After removing from the water bath, allow to cool and stir or whisk intermittently with a whisk.
In a second container, mix the Centella Asiatica extract, hyaluronic acid and panthenol until a uniform solution is obtained.
When the temperature of phase A drops below approximately 40 °C, gradually whisk in phase B.
Combining the phases at a temperature below 40 °C is the secret to a stable emulsion. A mixture that is too hot threatens sensitive active ingredients, one that is too cold will not combine well.
Finally add the rosehip oil, vitamin E and the Iscaguard IAF preservative. Mix the cream thoroughly.
Fill the finished cream into a disinfected jar or airless container.
The raspberry cream has a light, easily spreadable consistency and a gentle yellowish hue. Thanks to the combination of Centella Asiatica, hyaluronic acid and raspberry oil, it provides the skin with hydration, comfort and support for regeneration. It is ideal as a day cream especially during spring and summer.
Practical questions from home formulation — emulsion stability, raw material substitution, pH, shelf life and safe use of the finished cream.
The most common cause is combining the phases too quickly or at too high a temperature. Try whipping the still warm mixture thoroughly with an immersion blender — the emulsion can often be saved. For the next attempt, add phase B gradually and only once the temperature of phase A has dropped below 40 °C.
Yes. The hydrosol forms the aqueous phase, so you can replace it with another hydrosol or distilled water while keeping the same amount. Each hydrosol will bring its own character and a subtle scent to the cream.
Add sensitive active ingredients (Centella, hyaluronic acid, panthenol) in phase B, when the mixture has cooled below 40 °C. Rosehip oil, vitamin E and the Iscaguard IAF preservative go only into phase C at the end — this way you avoid unnecessary heating of sensitive components.
The aim is a slightly acidic pH around 5, which corresponds to the skin’s natural environment and at the same time suits the fruit‑acid‑based preservative. Check the value with a pH strip or pH meter and adjust it slightly if necessary.
Homemade creams with an aqueous phase belong among products that should be used up quickly. Store them in a cool place, away from direct light, in a clean, closed container and use them up within several weeks to a few months. Treat any change in scent, colour or consistency as a signal that the cream should no longer be used.
The most practical is an airless container, which limits contact with air and fingers and prolongs the freshness of the cream. However, a disinfected jar is also sufficient — in that case, scoop the cream out with a clean spatula, not with your fingers.
Raspberry hydrosol, fermented Centella, hyaluronic acid and gentle vegetable oils — everything you need for this recipe can be found among the active ingredients and raw materials in the Handymade.sk range.
