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Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable vitamin C derivative that is formed by combining ascorbic acid with glucose (2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid). In prac... read more
49,99 € incl. VAT
Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable vitamin C derivative that is formed by combining ascorbic acid with glucose (2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid). In practice, it is a raw material produced by a biotechnological/enzymatic process (glycosylation), which yields a bio-based form of vitamin C with better stability in formulations and a lower tendency towards undesirable darkening compared to pure ascorbic acid. On the skin, it behaves like a “vitamin C pool” – the enzyme α-glucosidase present on the membranes of skin cells gradually cleaves the bond and releases active vitamin C over time, which supports a more long-lasting effect without the strong “shock” typical of less stable forms.
The best approach is to add it gradually into stirred water (or a portion of the aqueous phase) and allow sufficient time for hydration. If clumps appear, sieving the powder or preparing a concentrated solution in a smaller volume of water followed by dilution will help.
Pre-hydrating the powder in glycerin or another glycol and only then mixing with water is also helpful.
Common combinations include humectants (glycerin, betaine, hyaluronic acid), barrier-supporting components (ceramides) and soothing extracts. For multi-active serums, it is advisable to prepare trial batches for stability and sensory assessment.
Colour changes are usually associated with oxidation or thermal stress. It helps to limit air exposure, use suitable packaging (airless), add antioxidant auxiliaries and adhere to the recommended pH.
It is not ideal, since it is a water-soluble raw material. For oil serums, oil-soluble vitamin C derivatives are usually chosen or a two-phase system is used.
Packaging that limits exposure to air and light is preferred (airless or opaque bottle). For aqueous serums, good compatibility with the preservative system is also important.
Also see other active ingredients offered by Handymade.sk.