Product description

PhytoCellTec™ Goji Exosomes is an active ingredient in the form of a white powder developed by the Swiss company Mibelle Biochemistry based on a stem cell culture of goji seedlings (Lycium barbarum). Goji is a plant native to southeastern Europe and Asia — known primarily for its red-orange berries. However, this raw material does not come from the fruits, but from a plant stem cell culture, which is a technologically different approach with its own spectrum of active components.

The basis of the effect are exosomes — small extracellular vesicles with a size of around 200 nm that cells naturally release as part of intercellular communication. According to scientific research, plant exosomes have a similar structure and function as exosomes in human skin, and human cells are able to take them up and respond to them.

Structure of a plant exosome

Lipid bilayer

Secondary plant metabolites

Lipids

mRNA

Enzymes

miRNA

Transmembrane proteins

An exosome is a carrier that transports active compounds between cells.

Intercellular communication via exosomes

Exosome

Exocytotic release

Endocytotic uptake

Receiving cell

Multivesicular body

Secreting cell

Exosomes transmit signals from one cell to another: the secreting cell releases them, the receiving cell takes them up.

Dual mechanism of action

PhytoCellTec™ Goji Exosomes act on the basis of two mutually complementary mechanisms:

• Exosomes from the outside — plant exosomes contained in the raw material act directly on the epidermis, where according to the manufacturer’s data they contribute to strengthening the skin barrier and protection against external stress factors such as UV radiation and pollution.
• Exosomes from the inside — according to the manufacturer’s studies, the substance stimulates mesenchymal stem cells in the dermis to increase the production of their own exosomes, which leads to an improvement in the formation of collagen and elastin in the connective matrix.

This is a technologically different approach from conventional phytoextracts — instead of directly supplying plant active substances, a signalling mechanism via exosomes is used, which acts on both skin layers simultaneously.

What the manufacturer says about clinical results

Reduction of wrinkle depth after 2 months

Placebo

0.4% Exosomes

Manufacturer’s study: 0.4% PhytoCellTec™ Exosomes versus placebo, measurement after 2 months. The average wrinkle depth decreased by approximately 12%. The asterisk indicates a statistically significant difference compared to the initial state.

Periorbital wrinkles — before and after

Before

After 56 days

Photographs from the manufacturer’s clinical test: 0.4% PhytoCellTec™ Exosomes, after 56 days. Fine wrinkles in the eye area appear smoother after application.

The manufacturer carried out several studies in the development of this raw material:

• In study S-755 (23 women, 41–69 years, 56 days, dosage 0.4%), the manufacturer recorded an average reduction in wrinkle depth of 11% compared to placebo — with a visible improvement in fine wrinkles under the eyes and deeper lines.
• In study S-749 (67 women, 39–70 years, 28 days) the manufacturer documented a statistically significant improvement in facial contour and tightening of jawline contours.
• The manufacturer further reports a 6% increase in skin density after 28 days compared to baseline and a reduction in the density of low-reflectance zones in the lower layers of the epidermis, which is considered a marker of improved dermal structure.
• In the cell study S-762, the manufacturer documented that the goji stem cell extract increases the production of exosomes by mesenchymal stem cells in vitro.

Use in formulation

Dosage ranges from 0.4–1%, with the manufacturer’s clinical studies based on the lower limit of 0.4%. The raw material is added to the aqueous phase:

• In cold processes, the powder is dissolved directly in the aqueous phase at room temperature.
• In hot/cold processes, it is added during the cooling phase, when the temperature of the formulation drops below 40 °C.

Suitable products

The raw material is intended primarily for anti-ageing formulations on an aqueous basis:

• Serums and concentrates for face and neck focused on firming and contouring
• Products supporting collagen synthesis — boosters, ampoules
• Masks with a sculpting and firming effect
• Lifting and firming emulsions and creams
• Preparations for the décolleté

Thanks to the powder form (Isomalt as a granulation matrix, Lecithin as a phospholipid component) and good water solubility, the raw material can be processed into various textures — from light serums to richer emulsions — provided that the temperature limitation is respected.

Good to know

• It is advantageous to pre-disperse the powder in a small amount of water before incorporation into a larger batch — this minimises the risk of clumping.
• The raw material does not contain its own preservative: standard preservation is necessary in every aqueous or emulsion formulation.
• Alcohol-free — suitable for alcohol-free serums and formulations with a low ethanol content.
• Storage at a temperature up to 25 °C in closed containers protected from light; shelf life 3 years.

Frequently asked questions