Plantasens HP 30 is a plant‑based oil‑in‑water emulsifying system intended for the production of stable creams, lotions, body emulsions, hair care products and color‑cosmetic formulations. It is a ready‑to‑use emulsifying blend based on naturally derived fatty components: it contains glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol and sodium stearoyl lactylate. These components are obtained by processing plant fatty acids and fatty alcohols; glyceryl stearate is prepared by esterifying glycerin and stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol is obtained by hydrogenation and processing of plant lipids, and sodium stearoyl lactylate is formed by reacting stearic acid with lactic acid followed by neutralization to the sodium salt.
Plantasens HP 30 belongs to PEG‑free emulsifiers, i.e. it does not contain polyethylene glycol derivatives, and it is designed as a self‑emulsifying base for O/W emulsions, that is oil in water. In practice this means that the oil phase is finely dispersed in the aqueous phase and the final product has a lighter, non‑greasy to silky skin feel. At the same time the emulsifier helps create a structure similar to lamellar lipid layers, which can support a pleasant skin feel, suppleness and improved formulation stability.
It is particularly suitable for formulations where gentle sensoriality, good stability, a naturally perceived composition and simple technological processing are required. It is able to emulsify both polar and non‑polar oils and can be used in a wide range of cosmetic products from light facial milks up to more nourishing creams with a higher oil‑phase content.

---

Key benefits

• Oil‑in‑water emulsifier – creates stable O/W emulsions with a pleasant, lighter and easily spreadable texture.
• PEG‑free composition – suitable for formulations in which the manufacturer wants to avoid polyethylene glycol derivatives.
• Plant‑derived emulsifying system – based on fatty acids, fatty alcohols and a lactylate emulsifier of natural origin.
• Self‑emulsifying base – combines emulsifying and co‑emulsifying components, which facilitates the formation of a stable emulsion.
• Silky skin feel – helps create a smooth, soft and less greasy sensorial profile of the finished product.
• Good formulation stability – supports emulsion stability even with various types of oils, butters and esters.
• Suitable for sensitive skin – also used in formulations focused on mildness, comfort and good tolerance.
• Linear viscosity adjustment – when the dosage is increased, it helps build the emulsion consistency in a predictable way.
• Support of skin suppleness – the fatty components in the emulsifying system contribute to a softer and more comfortable feel after application.
• Versatile use – suitable for facial, body, hair, sun care and decorative cosmetics.

---

Suitable for products such as

• facial creams for normal, dry, combination and sensitive skin,
• light facial milks and hydrating emulsions,
• body milks, body creams and more nourishing body emulsions,
• hand creams, foot creams and products for stressed skin,
• day and night creams with plant oils, butters and active ingredients,
• sun care and after‑sun products, provided that the emulsifying system is compatible with the UV filters and actives used,
• hair creams, leave‑in conditioners and smoothing hair emulsions,
• make‑up emulsions, tinted creams, concealers and light decorative formulations,
• products for sensitive skin where a gentle, comfortable and non‑greasy sensorial profile is important.

---

Use in formulation

• The recommended dosage usually ranges approximately between 3–5 %, depending on the product type, oil‑phase content and desired consistency.
• It is suitable for oil‑in‑water emulsions, i.e. for systems in which the aqueous phase is the external continuous phase.
• It is soluble in the oil phase after heating and complete melting.
• It is miscible with plant oils, butters, fatty alcohols, esters and lipophilic emollient components.
• It is compatible with common humectants in the aqueous phase such as glycerin, propanediol, betaine or panthenol when used at appropriate dosage levels.
• It is compatible with naturally oriented thickeners and stabilizers of the aqueous phase, for example xanthan gum or hydroxyethylcellulose.
• The emulsifier is added to the oil phase and heated to about 70–75 °C until completely melted.
• During emulsification both aqueous and oil phase should have a similar temperature to promote uniform emulsion formation and limit the risk of phase separation.
• After combining the phases, intensive homogenization or thorough mixing is recommended, followed by continued stirring during cooling.
• For formulations with a higher oil‑phase content it can be appropriate to add structure‑building components, for example cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, a plant butter or a suitable gel‑forming stabilizer of the aqueous phase.
• The emulsifier can work with both polar and non‑polar lipids; for more demanding oil combinations it is advisable to verify stability in a small trial batch.
• It is recommended to add only heat‑sensitive active ingredients, preservation systems, perfume compositions and essential oils during the cooling phase (at temperatures below 40 °C); Plantasens HP 30 itself is processed in the heated oil phase.
• The optimal pH of the finished formulation usually lies approximately in the range of pH 3–9, and the final stability must be verified according to the overall composition of the formula.

---

Safety and storage

• When working with the raw material, use clean tools and follow the usual hygiene rules of cosmetic manufacturing.
• When heating the oil phase, avoid overheating and prolonged exposure to high temperatures.
• The finished formulation containing water must be properly preserved according to the overall composition of the formula.
• For products intended for the eye area, children’s skin or very sensitive skin, it is recommended to carry out thorough testing of the finished formulation.
• Store in a dry place, well closed, away from direct sunlight, moisture and sources of heat.
• After opening, always close the container carefully to prevent moisture uptake, contamination or deterioration of processability.

---

FAQ

---

See also other emulsifiers available from Handymade.sk.